Full travel blog

Thursday, September 18, 2003
Although Dan is the only one who can probably see this – please be patient as I pull my finger out and try and get booted ticking along again.
Posted by Hew at 2:06 PM
Tuesday, July 22, 2003
Please be patient whilst Booted looks for a new host
Posted by Hew at 9:58 AM
Tuesday, April 29, 2003
29th March

Waster’s second arrived last Tuesday… baby Hal was 8lbs, all doing well. Still temping in Plymouth.. all v steady stuff but first wages arrived so having a touch of wedge in the pocket is a bonus.
Posted by Hew at 10:17 AM
Tuesday, March 11, 2003
11th March

For those of you i havent caught up with yet… and i know this is hard to believe but Ricky Slim is now a dad. Lisa gave birth to Abigail Mary at 3.30pm yesterday – mother and baby doing well… dont think its sunk in on dad yet.
Posted by Hew at 9:21 AM
Thursday, March 06, 2003
PLYMOUTH, 6th March

Yes your eyes arent deceiving you, there has been a update posted on Booted. As we are into March, it seems ages since I last posted.. one look at the dates and its true. To be honest, there hasnt been a lot to report. Writing applications and heading off to interviews is keeping me busy but as no job has yet arrived I really havent felt like sticking stuff on the site.
Saying that, I have started to get office work through the council temp agency which starts next week, and after 2 months of being very quiet on the job front I have now written 6 or so applications this week so I hope things are looking up. Writing applications isnt fun and takes ages.
No travels plans at the mo, although I hope to spend a weekend with a Parisian matey I met in Sydney and I must make it back up to London again soon. With any luck I might be able to wangle a Cardiff ticket if Arsenal can take it all the way again… but then again the last text message I got from Sweaty was that he was in Amsterdam – heard nothing since so I hope he came back unmolested and in one peice.
Posted by Hew at 7:10 AM
Thursday, January 02, 2003
PLYMOUTH 2nd January

Trust everyone enjoyed their’s New Years Eve. Weather was awful down here but we made the most of it. We went on the ferry from Plymouth over to Torpoint, dressed – due to the inspiration of BJ & Kate – as 70′s joggers, shorts over tracky b’s, ‘uge afro wigs with headbands, walkman head phones, bum bags etc. Met up with several others and the outifits worked quite well – with impromtu warming up sessions taking place inbetween pubs. Dartmouth last year had about 70% of people dressed up, Torpoint had 98% odd all making the effort to look stupid to see the new year in… nice.
Pretty well steamin up towards midnight, we saw the new year in with hundreds of others on the ferry causeway, trying to do auld lang syne (sp) in heavy drizzle and rain… not pretty but at that point who cares? Back to another pub till 2 odd and we took a ferry back to Plymouth and had a lovely walk back (via another pub) in the drizzle.
Needless to say yesterday (1st) I wasnt feelin to clever and from the text messages I’ve got back from others, I’m not alone.
Still, only had one cigarette all night so that isnt bad, but NY resolutons has to be job/money/lottery… in any order, lottery first would be nice.
Posted by Hew at 3:22 AM
Saturday, December 21, 2002
PLYMOUTH, nearly Christmas

Spent last week in London and Kent catching up with a few people. It being so close to Christmas and a few down with a touch of the cold/flu going around meant I couldnt meet up with everyone but it was a good night in SoHo for Paul’s b’day drinks. Managed to meet a few ex-colleagues at a bar on the strand, everyone looking well there. De Hems was an expensive bar (Belgian bar) but to be fair the beers are pretty special. Headed down to Kent to help out with friend working on his house, managed to reach the hundred’s in the amount of cups of tea made. Came back to southwest on Friday night with awful driving conditions through fog and rain, ain’t the UK special?
Posted by Hew at 3:51 AM
Saturday, November 09, 2002
PLYMOUTH

Just back after a short break in Cyprus to celebrate Mum’s 60th… Fantastic place and is recommended for fairly cheap sun and beer. Winter sun was just right for us (a just a wee hotter might’ve been okay though) and we all had a great time. Managed to get 2 dives in at a wreck called Zenobia, one of the worlds top 10 wreck dives. Sunk 20 years ago, its a car ferry at 20-40m that still has 108 articluated lorries in it. Nice a deep and real good dive site. Hung around the pool and beach for the others days, nice to relax eh?
Went with Mum to Cairo for a day and what a place. Traffic was mental, armed security on the tour bus, hawkers and scammer everwhere. Great stuff. Saw the pyramids (I managed to crawl inside to have a look around along with hundreds of other sweaty tourists), the Sphynx, papyrus shop, Musuem of Cairo, boat cruise on the Nile and finally the mad mad souke or bazaar in downtown Cairo. Nearly got lost and had a laff bargaining, a hectic city.
Got bacj the other day to reality, didn’t get the reserachers position I had an interview for the other… still looking for a job.
Posted by Hew at 2:59 AM
Thursday, October 17, 2002
PLYMOUTH

Back in Plymouth now for nearly 3 weeks. Being honest its been nice not to do much, but its quiet down here… understandable, given that everyone else is working hard. Been getting to know my new little nephew, who I will be a godfather too in November (*kiss my ring*), and popped back up to London for a matey’s stag do up in Oxford last Saturday. Stag (Dan) remained standing which I’ve yet to figure out but there you go. Good laugh had by all and yours truly took away the prize for the racing in the afternoon on the quads and pilots.
Waster’s new house has had its kitchen ripped out and a wall taken down so me and his old man have been busy on that one.
Another touch has been the car I’ve been offered by Waster. So I have wheels now and I am in a better position to hit the road and visit people… if I can afford the petrol of course. Bye for now.
(This post sort of spell checked by the Sista Sarah!)
Posted by Hew at 3:59 AM
Monday, September 30, 2002
PLYMOUTH, um UK

Sadly this trip at least has drawn to an end. Flew to Gatwick Thursday to surprising sunshine. Ice hockey game was very good, just a pre-season friendly but still staduim was nearly full. Vancouver Canucks lost 4-2 to the Edmonton Oilers. All the jangly organ playing (!) and everything, even the odd mexican wave… and once the rules were explained… v good. Wednesday was a day of packing up and shopping, and was great being driven round by me mate Pat. Fli8ght istelf was 11hrs odd with a stop in Calgary, and in these bucket seats which meant sleep had no chance.

Great to see everyone out in the Slug in Clapham Junction Thursday night, I wasn’t the dribbling mess I thought I’d be… but not far off it. Ctaching the train home was a doddle and being met by family and new nephew (+plus ballons) was a sight on Plymouth station.

So there we go. Mass of photos which I now have a chance to go through so keep em peeled for more photos to go up. Will have a think about the site, maybe put this page into a sub-link and create a new message board on the front page. Might take a few days as I’ve a shedload to sort out. Strange being back but if anyone wants to help it become less strange the mobile is on! Plus got my first job last night… breaking up cupboards and taking up the lino at Waster’s new house… nice.
Posted by Hew at 5:05 AM
Tuesday, September 24, 2002
VANCOUVER, Canada

Journey’s sadly coming to its inevitable conclusion… the end is in sight. What the ‘ell am I going to do now… except save to head out again next year!!!
Any cash in hand jobs, I’m yer man… have paintbrush will travel etc etc.
Vancouver is a fantastic place… despite living in a pretty rough part of town. The weather has been fantastic and have met up with Pat (Canadian mate met in Vietnam) and been crusing around having a few beers, checking the shopping out and relaxing. All good. Off to a icehockey game tonight then a few beers so should be a good one.
Posted by Hew at 10:56 AM
Sunday, September 22, 2002
VANCOUVER, Canada

Bit strange to be back in civilisation after being out on the islands for what seemed like ages. Fiji was fantastic.
Off the aeroplane and met up with people heading out to the islands who were staying at the same place. Few beers in the bar and a Auzzie bloke working in Nadi recommended some Fijian fish dish then said why don’t you lot come and see some more of the town. So it was off to the uber Sheraton hotel to see a jazz band then to some Fijian night club called After Dark. The fijian place was amazing, the fijian fellas are massive… and the ladies aren’t far behind too. Music was a kind of happy-happy easy calypso, ideal for the place and was nice being the only whiteys there… not when they get pissed up and try to sting you for dollars. Still good laugh.
Up early next day and it was down to the big yellow ferry to take everyone out to the Yasawas islands, past the Tom Hanks Castaway island, past Treasure island, past Bounty island… fantastic eh?
4hrs later we were met by the fellas from the Sunrise Resort on Nanuya LaiLai island. You’d all laugh as we stepped off the boat to rain and wind. Yup despite being warm and humid, Fiji threw rain at us for the first 3 or 4 days. The place itself wasn’t a resort… more like a fijian village. Initially wasn’t sure about the place but everyone there was so friendly we all quickly got into and had a laugh desipte the weather. Round the other side of the island was the Blue Lagoon, where the 80′s version (with lovely Brooke Shields) was filmed. Cracking snorkelling. Getting a cold on my first day blew my diving plans away (can’t dive with a cold… dangerous dunchuknow).
Blimey, I was even swimming in the rain then going for runs up and down the beach… I mean what’s all that about! We all made the most of it and started to really enjoy the place. A couple of us went to church last sunday with Moses (local fella), taking a boat over to the bigger island. The Fijian’s are religous but were happy to welcome us. Mostly in Fijian, the catholic service was fine, but it was the singing that set it off… no instruments just the men and women producing this amazing harmonious sound. Afterwards we had a huge meal with the rest of the congreation and joined in on a full-on cava ceremony. Cava is a drink made from the ground root of a tree, a kind of hallucigenic all fijian get into. All very good.
After 5 or 6 days at Sunrise we got the ferry back down to another island – Naviti – and stayed at the Korovovo resort. The weather was now amazing and the place was a bit more ‘resorty’. Sunbathing, more snorkelling and more cava… fantastic few days, and again the people were so friendly. Highlight on this island had to be the snorkelling with the manta rays… ‘uge big graceful rays… unforgettable. The photos should be superb.
Yesterday (I think) was a looong day. Ferry picked us up at 2.30pm before heading back to Nadi for a nice meal then off to the airport. There were a few of us on the flight and after being searched 3 times we headed across the pacific. Not a bad flight at all, only 10hrs and we were all pretty knacked after the last couple of weeks.
A two hour stopover in LA (was long enough!) and waiting in visa/passport queues and getting searched again, managed to head over to Alaskan Airlines and catch the 2hr30 flight to Vancouver. Met up with another girl heading into town and we pulled into a backpackers last night before hitting the beers and finding a cracking burger spot… food in Fiji was good but basic… damn that burger last night was good. Beer not too bad either… yet another country being discovered through its beer. Now to see what Vancouver is all about… after I do a mountain of laundry….
Posted by Hew at 12:25 PM
Saturday, September 14, 2002
click to jump to Mount Kinabalu
Pictures from Borneo uploaded…(we didn’t lose your photos Hew)
Posted by Hew at 2:01 AM
Tuesday, September 10, 2002
AUCKLAND (again), New Zealand

Good couple of days and managed to see a fair bit of the north island in my relatively short time here. The white water rafting was fantastic. 6 of us did the trip over 3 waterfalls, the biggest (and most famous of which) being the 7m waterfall – the highest commercially rafted waterfall in the world. Had pictures of the trip put onto a CD and is being sent home and should come out well. Awesome trip to get the blood pumping and was well put together, covering the local Maori understanding and history of the river and surrounding areas. Water damn freezing but we didn’t flip the raft on the ‘fall.
The evening was spent at a reconstructed Maori village about 20mins outside of Rotorua. Far from being a horrible tacky tourist spot, a lot of time and effort has been put in to this place and it showed. We walked in and around the village before having a performance of history song and dance followed by a hangi.. a traditional way of cooking a feast. Fantastic food. Few beers later on and it was a great day, not even pissed up English later on in the backpacker bar could spoil it… and it wasn’t even me.
Got up early next day to get the bus to Waitomo. Did the tuma tuma toobing cave trip. Again freezing water but far from the gentle underwater trip to see the gloworms in the cave, it was a pretty full on caving trip lasting about 2hrs. Again, a good time.. a thing New Zealand is very good at providing. Gotta come back to this place.

Easy trip back to Auckland last night and met up with Katie and Michael again before they head to Buenos Aires this afternoon. I have Fiji tomorrow and its likely that I will be out of contact for the next 10days. (Horrors… not updates). Camera will be working overtime so hopefully some snaps can be put up fairly quickly on my return. bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 5:14 PM
Sunday, September 08, 2002
ROTORUA, New Zealand

Diving the day before yesterday was very good. Weather did well, bright and sunny and calm seas meant the visibility behaved as well. Headed out to flat rock reef first of all to get deep… a bit too deep and too long according to the charts (and some other divers didn’t get on with it too well) but all good though not much sealife. Still, good to have a look around at that depth and get used to the coldness of the water. Quick snorkel in the afternoon and we headed over to the Rainbow Warrior site. Good long dive and able to penetrate the wreck a few times, spotting ‘uge crayfish and some cracking small coral on the wreck itself. 2hr journey back followed by numerous beers and was a good day.

Yesterday was spent on buses getting back down to Auckland then straight onto to Rotorua. The town is in a hotpool area and just stepping off the coach you are hit by the strong smell of sulfur. We headed out for roast dinner at a top eating spot here in town before wandering back to go for a swim in the hotpool warm swimming pool at the backpackers… tough eh? Followed by beers in the bar with a few local fellas and it was a fair end to a dull travelling day.
Bright but not too warm today. Only here for one day so have managed to make the most of it. Off white water rafting today on a grade 5 trip (um, thats not gentle) which sounds good before then heading over to a Maori village for a guided tour and a hangi (traditional Maori way of cooking food underground). Sounds like a tourist trap but been told its the best one around and even the local Maori fellas in the bar said that when this village does the haka… you will know it. Full on fire in their eyes to turn my weak English blood to water… should be good. Was told last night that the haka starts off by saying “we will kill you, we will not die, we will eat you when we kill you”. Or words to that effect. And back in the day they surely did… plus I didn’t realise that there are a number of different hakas. Nice.
Posted by Hew at 3:34 PM
Thursday, September 05, 2002
PAIHIA, Northern New Zealand

Arrived this morning after an easy 4hrs on the coach up. Finally seeing some sun in New Zealand. Actually back to waering a t-shirt which makes a nice change. Had a few beers and a nice Thai meal in Auckland last night but I am real glad I am out of the city and near the sea again!
Arrived at 1 and by 2 o’clock was on the Excitor, a powerboat taking a long trip round the Bay of Islands here. Gorgeous scenery and the trip took in a huge natural hole 17miles out to sea on an outlying island… very nice.

Diving the Rainbow Warrior tomorrow morning which should be good.. visibility meant to be great at the mo… plus a reef dive in the afternoon. Should be fantastic. In the process of booking up my stay in Fiji… which I’ve cut a little bit short as everything is a bit expensive and I don’t have the money to stay for my original 15 odd days… not down to 10… tough I know. Means I’ll be in Vancouver a bit earlier and back to the UK a week or so earlier too… about the 27th Sept I think. Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 10:19 PM
Wednesday, September 04, 2002
AUCKLAND, New Zealand

Landed yesterday after a pretty easy 2.30hr flight from Sydney. Went out for a few beers on the last night and they went down very well. Met up with Ollie and Lisa together with maties Cyril and Paul from the backpackers. All a bit more restrained than Friday night but still a good night.

Auckland about the same temp than Sydney but really overcast. Few beers in the bar last night again went down well, Tui seems the beer of choice at the mo. And Australia probably had to be Tooheys Extra Dry or Tooheys New or Carlton Cold or Calton Draught. You get the picture.
Managed to sort out the next few days in my all too short time in New Zealand. Heading to Paiha tomorrow morning for a couple of days… few things to do up there like crusing the Bay of Islands and a few walks. They are diving the Rainbow Warrior wreck which sounds fantastic but as usual I’ve come at a place in the wrong time so the visibility will not be good. As I am diving in Fiji then it shouldn’t be too bad a thing to miss, especially if I am lucky enough to come out next year. ‘Oo Knows.
After Paiha then its back down to Rotorua for a couple of days to see whats about before do some caving, walking and swimming the Waitomo caves on a ‘uge rubber ring. Laugh. Will then be back to Auckland before heading to the sun. . Nice
Posted by Hew at 4:26 PM
Monday, September 02, 2002
SYDNEY

Final message from Sydney. Ah I’ll miss Kings Cross (backpacker/red light area of Sydney by the way)… knocking up an e-mail yesterday and having a stab victim shout his way up to the police station at the top of the road. Colourful place this Kings Cross.

Went out for the day to the Blue Mountains and yeah they were pretty damn good. A cracking day helped by having a guide who thought he was the Aussie Billy Connolly, he spent the day taking the piss out of every nationality on the bus and drooling over the girls. Funny bloke, a true Aussie character I spose and he laid it on pretty thick but still, worth a laugh. Mountains are fantastic, blue because of the haze created by the eucalypt trees that are all over the place up there. Only an hour and a half or so out of Syndey so for this country… just on the doorstep.

Headed to the Maritime Museum here the other day and was pretty impressed. First proper musuem in Oz after hitting loads in SE Asia. Surfing exhitbition really impressive with wave vids with mad blokes surfing deadly 18m waves. Crazy foools. Day today spent in Manly mooching around with French matey Cyril, weather not too great but not bad for shopping and watching the (cold) surfers making the most of the waves. Another Oceanarium which was pretty impressive too.

Leaving for New Zealand tomorrow morning after meeting Ollie and Lisa for a few farewell bevvies tonight. Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 1:40 AM
Friday, August 30, 2002
SYDNEY

On my final stretch home now and managed at last to change my ticket yesterday. So now I can stop boring people to death with the ‘I not sure where I’m off to…’ conversations. Anyways, ticket at the mo is set for …
Sydney – Auckland flying on 5th Sept
Auckland – Fiji (Nadi) 12th Sept odd
Fiji – Vancouver (via Los Angeles) 28th Sept odd
Vancouver – Heathrow landing 5th Oct.
At last I actually know what I’m doing. Was planning to skip NZ and go for it next year… but I still hope to come out again but would’ve been mad to miss it as I can so easily fit it into the ticket. Paying for it is another thing.. Mr Visa loves me for sure.

With all this running around, um, drinking and seeing friends I’ve been in Sydney for 4 or 5 days and still not seen the bridge or the opera house. Haven’t figgerd that one out yet. Been the acquarium (sp) which was impressive, especially the shark/ray walkthrough and had a good look around town. Managed to visit some family friends after last seeing them 23 odd years ago (they’re both 87) and found them on fantastic form. If only I could have half their energy at that age.
Even saw a couple of 3D films at the big IMAX yesterday which was pretty damn good… but still no harbour (THE thing to see in Sydney). Leaving on Wednesday morning so I have tomorrow to head to Bondi beach or Manley (thereby seeing the harbour), Blue Mountains trip on Monday and Tuesday to do anything I’ve missed.
Met Ollie and Lisa last night in a Irish bar in town… a very messy affair… irish jigging, beer, dancing, beer… having Celtic football songs screamed into my ear by (Irish!) Ollie and um, some more beer. nice.
Posted by Hew at 12:54 AM
Wednesday, August 28, 2002
SYDNEY

Yeah bought some jeans yesterday after trying on loads… but that wasn’t the excitement of the day… We went out with the itention of finding a club or something but didn’t count on Sydney being so quiet on a Wednesday. So we went out for some food and a few bars and lo and behold, ended up standing right beside Alf from Home and Away! “Blimey!” I hear you say… (or “Who?”) but anyway, I can now say I’ve seen and stood next to a real life Aussie soap star. No I didn’t get his autograph, no I don’t watch or like the soap but hey, something different whilst having a final few beers in deepest Sydney.

This is Alf… Alf, in case you were wondering
Posted by Hew at 4:49 PM
Tuesday, August 27, 2002
SYDNEY

Arrived yesterday after a 3 and a half hour flight from Perth. No dramas. Weather is about same as Perth but its sunny and not raining which can only be a good. Staying in the heart of Kings Cross, a kind of Soho/bar/backpacker area, pretty colourful at night and central for wandering around. After a matter of an hour or so a few of us from the hostel headed out for food and the O’Malleys irish bar round the corner. Heavy night so my ‘early start organising things’ has gone for a burton.

Bit of shopping (jeans have fallen apart) and spot of sight seeing today then I’ll try and sort my life out… or maybe the next day…
Bye for now
Posted by Hew at 7:23 PM
Sunday, August 25, 2002
PERTH

Back in Perth after flying down yesterday. Took off without enough fuel (!!!) dunno what that was about but we made a refuelling stop at a mining town in the middle of nowhere. Hour late into Perth which was a pain but staying a night or two on the hospitality of Starky and his family again.

Off to Sydney tomorrow for a few days and to change the old ticket.

Its windy and been raining here today…. I want the beach, I want the sun, I want Exmouth and Cable Beach again. No sympathy from anyone? Didn’t think so.
Posted by Hew at 11:06 PM
Friday, August 23, 2002
BROOME, NorthWest Australia

More photos now up, hit the Archives link above and visit the KL archive and the June archive. And if you are quick you can spot dan’s spelling error (Thailaind) before he changes it… just can’t get the staff these days can you?

Ah well, enough about illiterate IT Managers… (this site won’t be up if I carry on too much about how he can’t spoll antything). Broome in winter living up to its reputation for 30degree days, no wind and cracking sunsets. Tough here I know. Cable Beach probably the best beach I’ve ever seen… huge flat beach with warm water, miles of clean golden sand. Supposedly the 3rd best in the world. Real picture postcard stuff. Being out in the backpackers near the beach (6km out of town) its no surprise to hit town for a couple of hours then waste the day lying on the beach. Went to the open air cinema here in town the other night, longest running open air cinema in the world dunchuknow, before hitting the local pub round the corner from home. Packed bar of pissed up big Aussies, and the odd women can be pretty full on but the backpackers try and hold their own against them.

Flying down to Perth tomorrow then off to Sydney for a few days to change my ticket. Sad to leave Broome, and I’ll miss the road sign to the Mangrove Hotel – advert saying “Broome with a view”, and the car rental place – called “Broome Broome”. Its the first night of the stairways to the moon here in Broome tonight so hopefully a few beach and full moon parties are on the cards too. The ‘stairways’ is when the full moon rises in the early evening in a fantastic bright golden colour… the light of which reflects on the mud flats/sand creating a ‘stairway’ effect up to the golden moon. Its the main reason I came to Broome and should be a cracking night.
Anyways, enough from me.
Posted by Hew at 9:29 PM
Tuesday, August 20, 2002
BROOME, NorthWest Australia

Journey wasn’t too bad actually, I’ve mastered the “switch off and think of crap as the hours go by” approach to long distances. 4hrs in England going to be a doddle after a few of the past treks across the outback of Oz. Managed to find CableBeach BackPackers, a laid back busy place a few mins from one of the best beaches in Australia. The added bonus of which is that despite flying back to Perth on Sunday 25th, I can catch the first of the three days of the monthly ‘Stairways to heaven’ event. All going well and a nice clear night there will be a description and photos shortly. ‘Tis the main reason I came to Oz.
Hope to get some more pictures up later this week, just need to spare 20mins to get them organised… so watch this space.
Also I would welcome any and all descriptions of the big event at the weekend – Spuggie and Clare’s wedding… hope to get some info before I come back and get a chance to see the vids/piccies. Ta.
Posted by Hew at 8:22 PM
Sunday, August 18, 2002
EXMOUTH, final post from here

Off tonight at 1am for the lovely 19hrs up to Broome. Managed to get into the Cable Beach Packbackers which is meant to be a cracking little spot for a few days before I fly to Perth on the 25th.

Organised a punch night last night which turned into a long one… several large bowls of nasty stuff went down well. Weather still very good but with the wind still hanging around. Snorkelling off Bundegi beach was good yesterday… all this damn exercise!
Night dive tonight before the bus so with any luck the hours will slip by.
Posted by Hew at 9:22 PM
Friday, August 16, 2002
EXMOUTH, 17th… Spuggie and Clare’s Wedding.

Despite the warmth during the day the wind still being a prob. Surfing yesterday was good… but I wasn’t. Rescheduled dives today got cancelled but we did at least get suited up and out i the boat. Waves were ‘uuuge’ and after nearly losing the boat we called it a day… or as the boatie said “nearly got flipped by a greenie”. So, couple of quiet days I spose…
Posted by Hew at 7:52 PM
Wednesday, August 14, 2002
EXMOUTH, Western Australia

It being winter here (and still sunny and high twenties…nice) but it means that it can get windy and mess your planned days up. Had a couple of dives cancelled due to the wind but headed out yesterday for the famous pier dive here. 150 + odd species of fish in one dive is meant to be unique… visibility wasn’t great, but a good dive anyways swimming in and out of the pier structure itself.
The dive safari has been cancelled because the organiser’s bus blew up… would’ve thought the scuba gear would be more important but there you go. Have rescheduled dives lined up for the weekend before I push off to Broome on Tuesday morning at 1am.
Last couple of days have been fairly easy… surfing, BBQ’s in evening and catching some sun by the pool here. Still, money getting low so plan is to catch plane down to Perth from Broome end of the month before heading over to Sydney to change my ticket before heading to New Zealand. All going well then fiji and vancouver will be last couple of stops before I head back to the UK (for a while at least). Hope all is well.
Posted by Hew at 10:32 PM
Friday, August 09, 2002
Just seen the photo… me making friends with Susi.
Posted by Hew at 8:54 PM
EXMOUTH, Western Australia

Staying in Exmouth for a little while as I’ve booked a marine safari for next Saturday (17th)… 5dives , kipping on the beach, catching your own dinner for the barbie… etc. Sounds great but means I’ll be round here for a while… tough yep, but hey. Haven’t taken my sunnies off yet.
Surfing is not easy… well not to me anyway. A few of us had 3 lessons over the last 3 days and we are starting to get there… kills your arms though. Second day we went to a ‘proper’ surf beach as the tamer one was flat… heavy stuff but I’m off again next week sometime so it might happen.
After the second lesson we went straight to a sailing boat and spent the next 8 hours crusing out to the islands with a bucket load of beers, gorge hot sun and some whales and snorkelling. Been a good couple of days though spending is way too easy here.
Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 8:49 PM
Wednesday, August 07, 2002

This picture’s just dying out for a caption competition…

Sorry, Hew. I couldn’t resist. Bunch more photos arrived and be up v.soon
Posted by Hew at 2:49 PM
Tuesday, August 06, 2002
EXMOUTH, Western Australia

Quick update as I’m in the middle of nowhere on an expensive connection with a buggered keyboard.
The 19odd hours from Perth weren’t too bad and we pulled up the other day to warmth and sunshine. Marina Beach place where I am staying is right on the beach about 3km from ‘town’ so its really nice liad back place.
Yesterday a couple of us hired a car and travelled round the peninsula here to the nigaloo reef. Stopping at yardie Creek (like a small canyon in a western) before heading up to Tourqiouse (sp) beach, where you walk up the beach swim over the reef and allow the current to sweep you down the length of that section of beach. Steamy hot and sunny, managed to see turtles, sharks and loads of fish… all starting from 5m off the beach. Hit a kangaroo driving around yesterday… only clipped him as he ran into the side of the car.. and nearly hit another as they suddenly fly out of the bush on either side of you.
Even managed to spot some humpbacks as we stopped at the lighthouse on the way back… a good day.
Out for a surfing lesson this afternoon and its looking a cracking day already. In haste, bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 8:26 PM
Friday, August 02, 2002
PERTH, again

Back after a trudging 4 odd hours drive back up from Albany this afternoon. Was real hard trying to sqeenze Albany into a day (and I hope to get back down there again), but I did it just. Spent this morning out in a boat around the Albany area, looking for whales. Bit breezy but after an hour we picked up a couple of humpbacks feeding on the far side of the bay. ‘uge things though the photos will probably be of the back of someone’s head but still great to see (the whales not the back of the head). Making our way back we came across two Southern Right Whales just off the beach… being curious they even came across and under the boat as we drifted near them. Just managed to drive and see the sea blowholes and natural coastal bridge (photos sometime I’m sure) before heading back up to Perth this evening.
Posted by Hew at 6:02 AM
Thursday, August 01, 2002
ALBANY, South West Australia

Just arrived fairly late on in Albany after hours driving accros the south west. Seems such a short distance on the map but gives an idea how big Australia is. Still 4 hours odd driving through huge green pine trees and bush was hardly too bad… better than a freeway at least.
Dunsborough was a good stop and I spent 3 nights there, ending up with karaoke last night at the local pub. Bohemian Rhapsody… murdered. Anyway, Dunsborough is a good kicking off point to visit and wander round the upper Cape before visiting the caves, wineries, chocolate, cheese and ice cream factories in the area. Drove to a place called Augusta this morning, right down in the south west of australia and walked to the other cape in the area, Cape Leewin, where the Indian Ocean meets the Southern Ocean. Yep I took a few snaps to back it up. After that it was the looong drive over to Albany, where I hope to take a whale spotting tour tomorrow before heading back up to Perth.
Posted by Hew at 4:19 AM
Monday, July 29, 2002
DUNSBOROUGH, South West Australia

Aah, the open road. Glorious sunny day saw me cruise out of Perth with the added bonus of a cd player in me Mitsubishi ‘something or other’. Headed to Bunbury first off, not much to see and do, but the lasagne and chips is recommended. Next pulled up in a place called Busselton, again bit limited for stuff to do. Did manage to wander the length of the longest jetty in the southern hemisphere, 2km’s worth, which I suppose is something. Landed in Dunsborough early evening and have a dorm to myself in the YHA hostel here on the beach. Winery’s, coast walks and beaches are around this area, scenery is top drawer so should be a good couple of days knocking abut down here.
Posted by Hew at 4:07 AM
Sunday, July 28, 2002
PERTH, Sunday pm

Thursday was spent mostly in a bar (surprise) in Freemantle, meeting a mate called Starky, a friend of a mateys in London. Managed to see the world’s closest MacDonalds to the beach (true) and cruise around old Fremantle (Freo) and visiting a few bars.
Back to Freo on Friday to visit the markets and avoid the rain. Met Starky again and stayed at his Mum’s place on Friday and Saturday. Great to have a house to crash in, pool, barbie, dartboard…superb. Was made most welcome, and managed to visit a posh jazz bar in north perth that evening for someone’s 30th. Interesting to see how ‘the other half live’ at this 30th, and they didn’t seem to mind our jeans and t-shirts amongst the tux’s and suits.

Saturday was sunshine again though temperature well chilly. Starky’s mate Dan is a bit of a waterskier and we headed off to Broomby north of Perth for him to hack up this big lake on his ski. Before you knew it and he was surprised himself, ‘James Bond’ here had his first lesson and managed to do the training bar, short rope and long rope… all in the space of 30mins. Bit chilly but the certificate of ‘Competent Doubles Skier’ made up for it. Drank half of the murky water, but still here… just.
Afternoon spent relaxing before driving to the park for my fist aussie rules footie lesson… held me own with the kicking but its still a hectic game. Barbie in the evening despite the cold… 1.5c that night, but again nice to relax in a nice house after the constant ‘on the go’ in the hostel. Still that is a laugh too.
We spent today being kindly driven around north perth by Starky’s mum. Hillary’s marina, trigg beach, cottesloe beach… probably means nothing to everyone but there you go. Was was cold today, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky so a great day with a few beers and fish and chips watching the sunset and surfers over Cottesloe beach… again, to quote Mr Hardcastle, superb.

Car has been booked for a week tomorrow morning so I’m heading south for a few days under my own steam (for a change from the buses, coaches, friends lifts etc).
Posted by Hew at 6:54 AM
Wednesday, July 24, 2002
PERTH

Woke up with yet another woolly head today. Must be something about the beer drunk last night. Hmmm. Anyone who’s recently been to Perth will know the Mustang, The Deen, The Post Office and the lovely late bar called The Bog. I know them now too…. messy.
Within hours of arriving the first night it was out on the beer, crawling back in at some stupid time in the morning. Made Tuesday a complete wash out as I was good for nothing except aimlessly wandering around the city centre.
Yesterday day was more productive. Bank account has been set up and my tax number is being sent out in a few weeks. So I’m set up for work, but fancy seeing a bit more of Western Australia first. Yesterday night was another messy one but I’ve managed to get up in reasonable time to head to Freemantle to see a friend of a friend who lives here and is up for a beer or three.

As for plans, well maybe be around Perth/Freemantle this weekend before hiring a car and seeing the southwestern coast for a few days, then stay in Margaret River/Albany for a night or two. In a weeks time after my bank stuff arrives, I’m going to take a deep breath and jump on a bus for 20+odd hours and head to Exmouth for some diving.
Perth is way too much like the UK at the mo, weather included, and its been a culture shock after SE Asia. Wasn’t expecting that! Anyway, that means to get out of Perth for a while and see the sights… despite it being winter and rainy. Hope all is well.
Posted by Hew at 7:30 PM
Monday, July 22, 2002
PERTH

The beers cold… its cheap… and there is plenty of it. Nice.
Posted by Hew at 9:23 PM
PERTH, AUSTRALIA

Bit chilly here… well it is winter so what do you expect. Saying that its only long-sleeved t-shirt weather, hardly the wet and windy ‘joys’ of the UK winter. Still, makes a huge change from the warmth of SE Asia. First impressions of Perth? Shops look a bit 80′s… and its a change to see large number of grey-headed westerners (or rather caucasians) walking about. Funny to say but its been awhile.
Few beers at some interesting bars in Singapore last night set the flight over up well and helped being a bit knackered to let the 5 odd hours go by. Didn’t help having the 18yr old sniffing champion of Singapore sitting next to me but what can u do? Still the flight over the western coast of Australia was impressive, added to which it’s the country I hope to be driving through in a month or so’s time.
Loads of backpackers around despite it being winter over here, already have a beer up and barbie at a local hotel to go to tonight…so we’ll see what Oz is about already.

Booted has a new home (see below), hats off again to Dan working his magic. All going well, www.booted.net is home for good, so please change/delete/edit your Favourites or hotlinks accordingly. (yeah cos Booted is all in everyone’s Favourite I’m sure!)
Posted by Hew at 2:03 AM
Sunday, July 21, 2002
Technical note:
Booted has a new home – it’s booted.net and you should be able to reach Hew by emailing hew@booted.net too. If you accidentally go to the old places, you should still end up here – alternatively Add Booted to your favourites (only works in Internet Explorer).

Dan
More photos arrived via Plymouth – be up soon

The beach on Sihanoukville, on the south coast of Cambodia. Tough day
Hew is in the middle!

Posted by Hew at 6:02 AM
SINGAPORE

Got the flight ticket re-issued the other day so after 4 months odd I now have means to travel again. Bring on Perth. After the ticket I got the MRT (underground) and bus to the ‘World Famous’ Singapore Zoo yesterday. Not being a major fan of zoo’s I
did want to see how one of the best was set up. Was quite surprised, loads of different animals (funny, it being a zoo and all) but no real cages (except for crocs and spiders), rather moats and ditches separating walkways to the animals. Crocs v impressive and hundred of primates. But I couldn’t help but see lots of Jon Sweatman swinging from the branches though…
hmmm. Same expressions and everything. Ah well.

Friday night we headed out to the famous Zouke Bar… in actual fact 3 clubs in one. Very messy night, with DJ Pippi (from Pacha, Ibeefa dunchuknow) so music was good as was the jugs of g&t… had to be done to get the most of the hour long 2 for 1 deal… booze especially is v expensive here.

After trying to get over the (not small) hangover, we headed off to an island called Pulau Ubin, a small island very near the west coast off Singapore. After managing to fall into the river taxi (!) in front of 30 odd people, me, Andy and his mate Mark hired mountain bikes on the island for a couple hours. Bite of quality local food on the way back (after clearing the wooly heads cycling) and all that was left was to hit the pool at Andy’s apartments. Tough life.

Shopping today as the fellas here are off to to do Mount Kinabalu in a coupel of weeks time so we went out and they are all kitted up in jackets and walking boots. Off out for a few beers tonight at a place called ’4 Floors’, before I fly to Perth early tomorrow morning. Next stop Oz. Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 4:40 AM
Thursday, July 18, 2002
SINGAPORE, in um… Singapore

Short update. Arrived last night from KL after 7 hours of dull bus… made interesting only by a tyre blowout and failing badly in understanding the reclining chairs. After a cab to Andy’s, had a nice Chinese at a popular place called Fatties (apt) and a few beers. Singapore overcast and dull today but the quays and white-scrubbed local sights made for a good walk round. Picking up flight tickets tomorrow then maybe the zoo. We’ll see.
Posted by Hew at 4:12 AM
Tuesday, July 16, 2002
KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA

More photos are up thanks again to Dan. He’s asked about the delay in getting the photos to him (only May’s have gone up) but I can only point to my own laziness in sending them, plus the ’rounds’ they have to do of the family down in the southwest. I’ll try and turn the Borneo/orangutans photos around more quickly this time… I really hope they’ve come out well.

Well, nearing time to say ‘ba’ to SE Asia and I have to say its been superb and even if you are thinking of somewhere different for a holiday i.e. from Spain (Mr Sweaty-man!) get thee to Thailand, Malaysia… or whereever… you won’t regret it for sure. For me, its been nearly 6 months (6 months!) on the road so far and thoughts are turning to Oz. Been a relaxing last couple of days, staying at a mate’s house again here in KL – with the added luxury of showers, air-con and sofa’s! Ah, the comfort.

Travelling down to Singapore by bus this afternoon to burden myself on mate Andy’s floor before flying to Perth on Monday morning, can’t wait. My eyes have been given the all clear by the doc and I can swim in about a weeks time, so bring on the beach and the sea! Even have new fins and mask which haven’t been tried yet. However, reading about the amount of stuff that can bite/maime (sp?) or kill you in the Oz seas (or land for that matter), I’ll have to keep my eyes open whatever. Arf. (*sigh*).

Couple more things. Firstly a final resting home for Booted is trying to be worked out by the technical genuis that is Dan, so keep half a eye on your e-mail boxes for that (exciting eh?). Also, if anyone has any mates knocking around OZ at the mo, drop them a line… it’d be good to meet up with more people on the way for a beer.. or two.. or more. Bye for now.

Posted by Hew at 7:12 PM
Monday, July 15, 2002
More photos uploaded… Hey – be warned we’ve only received films up to May…

These from May in Vietnam
Tran Quoc Pagoda in Hanoi, Vietnam, one of the oldest in the country.

Me outside the infamous Hanoi Hilton where ‘enemies of the people’ were held and tortured. Interestingly the government makes a big deal about how well captured US pilots were treated here during the ‘American War’, but the images and reconstructions of the conditions the unfortunate Vietnamese were held in under the French rule were all too graphic (circa 1950′s).
Posted by Hew at 1:49 AM
Thursday, July 11, 2002
KHOTA KINABALU, BORNEO

Been a hectic few days so I’ll fill u in. Flew over from KL a few days ago to Khota Kinabalu (KK), which – for those clutching their maps – is about three-quarters the way up Borneo Malaysia, in an area called Sabah. Found a nice little guesthouse with a friendly owner (Jimmy) and bumped into an English girl, Ellie, also thinking of doing the mountain. Didn’t fancy heading straight off so Jimmy suggested a festival down the coast in an area called Khota Peyu. He was heading that way and thought more the merrier (didn’t even want pertrol money.. v unusal, nice bloke). So an Austrian couple, a local girl working for him (Crissy), Ellie and myself drove a few hours to the festival. It was celebrating a palm tree that is used for virtually everything – building houses, weaving, making tools and extracting a food stuff to cook in hundred of different ways (called sago). Crazy stuff.

Eating sago, Borneo

Its now an annual event.. it had friut, vegetable, rooster, bird and cat competions… the lot. We tasted nearly every type of fruit and foodstuff – sweets, biscuits, savory jelly stuff etc etc. As we left there we enjoyed the beauty competition… to find Miss Sago 2002!

Peanuts au naturale, Sago Festival, Borneo Making sago from the palm, Borneo

We then went to Jimmy’s friend’s place (The Captain), a retired malaysian airline pilot and jungle survivalist trainer (!) who now owns and runs a succesful fruit selling business. His orchards were beautiful and set just off a glorious (and empty) stretch of beach further up the coast from the festival. Even had time to visit Crissy’s house, again along the coast and again along a gorgeous beach, and watched the sun set. Great day, albeit it, um.. different.
Next day was up early to go to the mountain park. Mount Kinabalu is the highest peak in SE Asia at a hefty 4,101m. It look huge when we arrived… and we still couldn’t see the actual summit. After organising a guide (Garrik), we set off at about 10.30pm for the climb to 11,000 feet where we had dorm accomdation sorted. 6km uphill, and I mean uphill. Legs screaming, altitude hitting you… I can’t believe I made it.

Talk about knackered. Arrrived about 3ish and ate some food before relaxing in the sun on the balcony of the hillstation. Yup, got burnt (but not too badly). The views were (as you’d expect) phenomenal.. I hope the photos come out well, the sunset at that hieght was amazing.

Up at 2am (!!!!!), for the final 2.5km walk to the summit. We left at 3am odd and walked to a hut where we stayed 30mins to time it right for the the sunrise at the top. Despite being steeper (and more dangerous) it was eaiser in the dark and cold when u just had to put one foot in front of the other. 2 t-shirts, sweatshirt, fleece, rain jacket, gloves and a balaclava and it was still bitingly cold. Anyway, we made it to the top and it was all worth it.

Sunrise and 4000m, and if I lose that film there will be lots of tears! Landscape like something out of Star Wars at the top… phenomenal.

Headed down that morning and it was nice to feel the warmth again. A great trip. Headed next to a little town called Ranau, then getting a taxi to a place called Poring Hot Springs. A small nature resort type place built around the natural hot sulfur water that bubbles up there. Took a relaxing hot bath, before jumping in the cold water of the swimming pool… nice.

I stayed only one night and came back to KK this afternoon, Ellie stuck around to camp at the site. Managed to get to the tropical park they had there this moring… a retained rain forest environment they look after and have walks around. Amazing place, and just as you’d imagine a true ‘jungle’ to be. They have two orphan orangutans there, Wari (5yrs) and Susi (3yrs), who are looked after by the rangers before they are returned to the jungle. The older orang is distant and doesn’t like humans now she’s older (a good thing to be learning). She spotted me in the avairy and tracked me across it (she was on top of the 30ft netting). Nearly gave up seeing the younger one but as I returned to the gate a ranger arrived with a French couple and Susi came down from the trees. She was great, so intelligent and still happy to have human contact. I got some amazing photos. You sit next to her and she grabs your arm, and before you know it you are givng her a quick back massage/scratch. Hard to describe but really made the trip.

Thats about all from the last 3 days. Going to a talk on the mountains of Borneo tonight (as you do) then flying back to KL tomorrow morning to have my final check at the eye doc’s. Borneo is great and a pity I have seen so little (desipte covering a fair amount in my limited time). Sipadan is meant to be an amazing dive spot… I can’t wait to return. Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 1:52 AM
Monday, July 08, 2002

Click to zoom in Click to zoom in Click to zoom in Click to zoom in

From left to right (click on the image to zoom in)…
Vin Moc tunnels, DMZ (Demilitarised zone), Vietnam. This is the entrance to the tunnels used to live in for years during the fighing.
Um, modern art found along the river in Hue, Vietnam… bizarre.
The ‘mad monk’ artist in Dalat, central Highlands in Vietnam, with the picture I bought.
Outside main church in Hanio, complete with my battered Ho Chi Minh soldier’s hat.
Posted by Hew at 1:09 AM
Friday, July 05, 2002
KUALA LUMPUR

Still in KL for a day or so. Haven’t done much in the last few days except visit a few more malls and squeeze another game of golf in despite the humidity. I have done one significant thing. After fixing an appointment and pondering for a day or so, yesterday I had laser treatment on both eyes. Wasn’t too bad actually, the process is fairly straight forward without too much discomfort … but I will save you the gory details (which are available upon e-mail request). After the topical anaesthetic wore off this afternoon, I had tears running down my face and my poor dry eyes were not feeling too clever. However, after a couple of hours kip I am feeling a lot better and am looking forward to wandering round tomorrow speccy less. But although the need for glasses has now gone, no doubt I’ll still be a 4-eyed gimp to everyone… but there you go (ha beat you to it Slim).

Anyways, it does mean that I can’t swim/dive for at least 3weeks-1month to prevent infection (when they lasered my eye open… yum) so no diving which is a real shame. Instead my plans are to climb a mountain and hopefully visit an orangutan rehab place.(?) There’s a huge peak on Malaysian Borneo called Khota Kintabalu which I’ve heard good things about… plus it’ll give me a chance to really test my new eyes. Bye for now.

Click to zoom in
Click to zoom in
Posted by Hew at 11:27 AM
Wednesday, July 03, 2002
Addenendendum (sp)

The header photo inserted by Dan is from a sort of tacky resort cum fishing port place on an island called Cat-Ba in northern Vietnam… about 20km from China. Photo taken in the morning when the locals come in from their floating houses to buy stock/trade goods etc.
Posted by Hew at 6:24 AM
KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA

Fired out a few e-mails backing up Dan’s note below, please amend links to direct to www.surveylab.co.uk/booted – my e-mail tag has also been changed accordingly.

More photos on their way…
More photos have arrived in the UK so if I can take more of Dan’s time, keep an eye out for them. Currently still taking it easy in KL, managed to visit the Petronas Tower (tallest office building in the world) and the KL Tower (revolving restaurant, observation tower) today. Seems when the Malay’s pull their fingers out they got for their construction big time.
Bottom view of the Petronas Tower in KL

What they don’t do is service and it hasn’t been too easy trying to sort a trip either to Borneo (east) Malaysia or the east coast of the Malaysian Peninsula. (Malaysia bascially consists of two main land masses, Borneo part and the Penisula part which is below Thailand). Anyways, hopefully visiting a dive island called the Tioman Islands about 4 hours out of KL off the east coast this Friday. Have a fair bit of time on my hands till I shoot off and visit a friend in Singapore before then flying to Perth. Bali, the Gili Islands and the far eastern side of Malaysia is too damn expensive to do outside of my flight ticket so they will have to be shelved till I can next (afford to!) visit.

Have managed to play some golf, courtesy of my host here and I hear that cheap golf could be had in Oz and New Zealand. Although the way its going, I’ll be eating roadside dirt for sustenance in a month or so. Laff tho. If anyone has any info or spots on Oz they have visited, please fire them away to me. I haven’t really read anything about the country yet but have a growing understanding given the other travellers I’ve bumped into on the way. All going well here, drop me a line with any news, more photos soon.
View from viewing platform of the Petronas Tower in KL
Posted by Hew at 6:13 AM
Tuesday, July 02, 2002
Technical note…
er, sorry, would you all mind pointing your browser to: www.surveylab.co.uk/booted/index.html
There’s a couple of background technical problems (expiry dates and cached web servers) but this site will at least guarantee you can keep up with Hew (it’s faster too).

Thanks a lot
Dan (dan @ surveylab.co.uk)
Posted by Hew at 2:53 PM
Saturday, June 29, 2002
KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA

Snap of Kuala Lumpur skyline, Malaysia>
Arrived last night after a cock up with the train timetables. The jungle train now doesn’t run an express during the day so in order to head down the country yesterday I caught an amazingly cheap flight into KL. Staying at a friend house with his family – kids aged 10, 9 and 3 is some change of environment after travelling around for months. Still I am being spoilt with food, air-con and enough games to keep me and the kids quiet for months.
Went to a couple of ex-pat leaving do’s last night at some amazing houses, life for the ex-pats out here seems very good! Again, a hell of a change from beach huts and sweaty buses.

Will be hopefully swinging a golf club in a few days (ah, the ex-pat lifestyle) before heading over to the other main Malaysian isalnd to visit Sabu and maybe do some more diving before heading to Singapore around the 17th July and leaving for Perth on the 22nd. Got a great deal on a mask and fins in KL today so it’ll be great to take advantage of cheap(ish) diving before the costs go up in Oz.
Posted by Hew at 2:55 AM
Wednesday, June 26, 2002
KHOTA BARU, MALAYSIA

‘Lovely’ Khota Baru… a little transit town near the Thai border used sa a kicking off place to the Prentian Islands and the jungle train through the country. Left the island yesterday down to my last 50cents. Slow boat didn’t turn up so it was an extra 4hours on the beach witing for the next boat. Bit of a drag, but could’ve been worse, sitting on a gorgeous beach watching the world go by.

Completed my Advanced Diving course before I left the island… now really skint but it was really worth it. The night dive was superb, seeing moray eels and the phosphorence (sp) in the water wsa amazing. The deep dive was good too, going down into the colder water and seeing the life down there. Bouyancy was hard but all in all a great time diving. We had a full moon party couple of days before I left and managed to get hold of bottles of samsong and vodka to see it in. But wandering back 5.15am and having to dive the following afternoon wasn’t clever. Not pretty.

Now have to decide whether I go straight to Kuala Lumpur or stop off in the national park. Anyway, hope all is well and that spirits are starting to recover after the Brazil defeat… just anyone but the Germans please… even the dirty Brazilians.
Posted by Hew at 10:21 PM
Saturday, June 22, 2002
KECIL, PERENTIAN ISLANDS, MALAYSIA

‘Uuge monitor lizard strolling around beach in Malaysia

More diving today after two fun dives yesterday. Dived to whats called Sugar Wreck this morning – a big containter ship that sunk nearby 3 years ago. Took the dive as part of the Advanced course, and I have a night dive tonight lined up. Tomorrow is the deep dive to mystery reef and then a peak bouyancy dive in the afternoon… both advanced too. Haven’t really gone for the advanced… just seems to have happened. Only one more dive needed after that… the navigation dive.

Fire twirling, Full Moon Party, Malaysia

Will head back to Khota Baru for a night after here before catching the jungle train as I head down the country… think I’ll miss out Georgetown. Hope all is well. Bye for now.

Another view of a snorkelling stop on the island tour off Phi Phi
Posted by Hew at 11:11 PM
Friday, June 21, 2002
PERENTIAN ISLANDS, MALAYSIA

Coral Bay, Perhentian Islands, Malaysia

Yes, I am still alive but on an island off the north coast of Malaysia with limited internet access so, (for a change) no updates.

Perhentian Islands, Malaysia

Left fantastic Phi Phi five days odd ago and got the ferry back to Krabbi. A great place to watch football and muck about on the beach but it was time to move on after all the others left. In KRabbi, I jumped on an ‘air-con’ minibus for 6 odd hours heading south. After waking up in the middle of a city no knowing who where or what, I eventually changed minibus’ and caught up with Lesley and Gerard from Phi Phi whom I was travelling down with. Hit the Malay border around 8pm odd and managed to get a taxi to Khota Baru and stayed the night there. Up early next day for another taxi to the fast ferry stop to get out to Kecil Island part of the Perentian Islands.

If Phi Phi was nice then this place puts it all in some perspective. Crystal waters, clean beaches, a really chilled atmosphere and scorching heat… lovely. I’m staying in a beach hut at the end of Long Beach. Lesley and I did the PADI Open Water course over 3 days, while Gerard did his Advanced. So I am now officially a qualified diver. Course was really well taught and the diving was fantastic… I definitely have the bug now. Jenkins whiprays, blue spotted stingrays, trigger fish… they are all in my log book now! Turtles and backtip shark soon too. Hope to stay around a few more days and do some fun dives, maybe even one or two advanced dives (i.e. wreck dives). Who knows. Damn hot in the evening and with virtually no electricity it takes some getting used to but this place is awesome.

Instructor and trainee divemaster
Will have to head back to the mainland sometime soon, maybe to take the ‘jungle train’ down through Malaysia to KL or Melaka. Other option is to head across to Penang and visit Georgetown. Next update might be a while…

Lesley getting bashed around on boat to Perhentian Islands, Malaysia
Posted by Hew at 2:18 AM
Friday, June 14, 2002
KOH PHI PHI

Maya Beach, Thailand (the Beach beach)

Tim, Dunc and a few others all left yesterday for Puket/Bangkok or Rayleigh Beach. Wasn’t a great day so I took the opportunity to try and get back to looking after the baht for a while (!). Weather turned for the better today so myself and Worthing friend’s, Gerard and Lesley hired a long tailed taxi boat to travel across to Maya Beach (the so-called Beach beach). Seas were fairly rough which made the jounrey interesting and it is a pretty cove despite the poor visibility for an snorkelling. Then had the ‘delight’ for the weather to turn and start to rain. Still a good trip out.

Leaving day on Koh Phi Phi

View of our local beach on Koh Phi Phi

More beach tomorrow, then the next BIG match. Once again the island’s night spots are set to descend into (good humoured) British mayhem. Bye for now.
Beach time on Phi Phi, getting psyched up to take on the ladyboys at volleyball again
…
Phi Phi – Morning after watching football, juice stop, me, Tim, Yam and Dunc
Walking past English bar after a midday footie match. England vs Nigeria I think
Posted by Hew at 8:04 AM
Wednesday, June 12, 2002
KOH PHI PHI

View of coastline off Phi Phi

Still on Phi Phi, and getting a fair bit of colour (as he looks at the downpour outside). Had to cancel the first day’s snorkelling trip due to the bad weather in the morning. Needless to say it then cleared and we had another scorcher. Isn’t hard to bum around on the beach on the beach and thats all we’ve done. Did manage to do the snorkelling yesterday though. Again rough sea in the morning and the visibility wasn’t great but a cracking day. Boat headed into big coves in islands, spotted some sea snakes and swimming around in a feeding frenzy of little tiger fish was an experience.

Just before storm, view of main side of Koh Phi Phi

Day again turned into a scorcher but the knees escaped any sunburn. Can’t say the same about Duncs back, those sunblisters ain’t pretty. Did manage to go yet another doctors after I cut my big toe on some old coral at the final beach, so yet more antibotics. (Not a bad cut though). Didn’t manage to get to the beach that The Beach was film due to the weather in the morning but from some people who have been, we went to more impressive places. Photos should be good.

Bamboo island off Phi Phi, place where I cut me foot
Great snorkelling cove near Koh Phi Phi
Quiet cove we were snorkelling in off Phi Phi

Currently very jaded after a night on the samsong and red bull buckets of drink last night. Friend out here had his birthday (plus the French were knocked out) so it all went up the wall. Just seen the England qualify but after last night, its a quiet one… till this evening at least.

Will be here for a couple more days. Dunc and Tim are off to Pucket and then Bangkok tomorrow… I’ll be across to Malaysia over the weekend. Katie and Michael who I travelled with in Laos/Vietnam turned up here which I wasn’t expecting, so maybe a few more night on the beers. Been real expensive the last couple of weeks… not good on the bank account.
Posted by Hew at 3:04 AM
Saturday, June 08, 2002
KOH PHI PHI

Availability of internet, is, as you’d expect in Thailand, no problem. Having the organisation to get off the beach, however, is. Third day on the island and it cracks up to everything people say about it. Weather has been iffy with afternoon sun giving way to some cloud but it takes nothing away from this place. Not worth banging on about it, hopefully some photos will help.

Sorted a bunglow for a few days but we are changing to a less expensive place tomorrow. Spent last two days on the beach, with most of the day recovering from beers the night before. Inbetween losing at volleyball to the ladyboy teams and not getting sunburnt (result), we’ve been drinking away nervously in preparation of THE MATCH last night. Watched it with 40 odd other English in a bar called Jordans here on Phi Phi. A monster of a game and the bar certainly didn’t hold back. Cracking. Up to the Reggae Bar after and memories start geting vague. Needless to say the English on the island did us proud, with the only negative comments being that “the English supporters have too much passion”. That was from from of the few Agentinian fans…. but then again he was surrouded by “passionate” English cheering the sight of a bloody Argie nose and booing their fouls. Didn’t see much of him after halftime.
Bet England was less than productive on Friday afternoon after the game.

Lewis Tyson fight tomorrow, then we’ll actually do something productive and head off snorkelling round the islands. Fishing and kayaking maybe on the cards later this week. Next step would be when Tim and Dunc head back to Bangkok for a Ministry do, and I’ll go back to Krabbi to travel to the Perentian (sp) Islands for do some diving. Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 8:03 AM
Tuesday, June 04, 2002
KRABBI

Struggled through the 18hrs on a reasonably crap bus. Dodgy aircon bus, as we gave sad eyes to the big VIP buses that hurttled past us on the road down. Waiting around for the boat to take us the hr and a half to Koh Phi Phi. Have no clue about the availability of internet on the island… we’ll see. Bye for now
Posted by Hew at 9:55 PM
Monday, June 03, 2002
BANGKOK

Well it had to happen, Hew is leaving Bangkok. Yup, about 2 weeks of doing nothing hasn’t been bad at all but tonight we’re heading by coach to Koh Phi Phi (aye, the Beach beach). Dunc and Tim are up for it, although being out here for two weeks odd they are intending to lord it up and have a good time which is fair enough. So we’vbe decided not to tell Tim how long the journey actually is till we are on the bus… his reaction is not going to be pretty.
Posted by Hew at 8:55 PM
Sunday, June 02, 2002
BANGKOK

Recovery time after the England game I’m afraid. Eventually met up with mates out here from the UK after much running around. Saw the game in a busy Irish bar but nothing as hectic as the Londoners pub across the road. Absolutely rammed with ex-pats and travelling Brits. Still a good night was had by all.
Posted by Hew at 12:31 AM
Monday, May 27, 2002
BANGKOK (summary post)

Time flying around here, days are drawing ever closer to the start of the ‘big’ event. All very laid back here in Bangkok, filling the days with ‘stuff’ before I head south in June. Naff all really to report, have aquired the habit of drinking beer with ice in it (!), having to fight off tranny pickpockets as you walk back to the guesthouse, and the days are getting really hot and sticky.
Posts will be few and far between over the next fews days, till I actually move on from Bangkok. World Cup starts tomorrow and counting the beers I’ve sunk isn’t the most riveting of updates, is it? bye for now
Posted by Hew at 12:10 AM
Saturday, May 25, 2002
BANGERS (still)

Ticked off for not posting an update but to be honest, with a bit of ‘downtime’ they ain’t going to be the most rivieting of posts.

Anyway, yesterday was a relaxing ‘doing stuff’ day… ie, post, internet, eating, drinking. Same Same. Saw the Mel Gibson war film in a local bar and sank a few beers at a street bar with a couple of peeps along the way.
Travelled to the weekend market in the north of Bangkok today. Massive place with thousands of retail spots. I could’ve bought ‘Mince Pies: Receipes’ book (hmmmm…tempting), lampshades, clothes, kitchen sink etc etc. Huuuge place and well worth a days mucking about. It doesn’t help when its a scorcher but that just means more pit-stops, and a well earned 6 bottles of beer at the end of it.. jubbly. After selling off some stuff I don’t wear/use I’ve now filled it with more clothes. Nice.

Tomorrow is sunday, and its a national holiday here on monday so nothing planned… but who knows? Not me.
Posted by Hew at 5:50 AM
Thursday, May 23, 2002
Did I mention Arsenal did the double this year? … I did? Ah well.
Posted by Hew at 12:53 AM
BANGKOK

Going to be stationed here for a few days it seems. Bangers is such a relaxing place, after being on the road for a few months with everything within spitting distance, literally.

Went to other main boxing arena here in Bangkok the other day. Luckily it was a big fight night and we could see the full local support in their betting prime. A good night and well worth the hassle with taxi drivers getting out there.
After a morning downpour in Bangkok

Yesterday I sauntered up to MBK, a hugggge shopping centre beside Siam Square… the main shopping area here. wandered around before seeing Star Wars II in the VIP cinema (big fat comfy seats.. nice). Unfortunately the film was less impressive but worth seeing all the same… Didn’t make Pantpong (!) last night… hour long taxi rides in the mad traffic (though cheap) here eats up your day so we ended up at the VW van mobile cocktail bar for a few, before nipping to a small little bar of Khao San Road. Nice
Posted by Hew at 12:29 AM
Monday, May 20, 2002
BANGKOK

First night here was very messy… took me 20mins to try and type the message below. Ended up at 4 odd at closing time in this bar off Khao San Road (aka CowPat Road). Needless to say that I didn’t get up at 7.30am to go to the Australian Embassy.
Got all the stuff needed to get my visa application and bought some stuff from the markets here, so its wasn’t a complete washout. (Though Bangkok was yesterday with a 5hr morning downpour leaving the road outside our guesthouse 2ft in water).

Last night was more drinkiing I’m afraid. Bumped into Ollie and Lisa during the day and met in this street bar. Headed off to Nana Plaza later on (a kind of alternate to the infamous PatPong roads of bars and clubs). A good evening had by all, especially yours truly who was sitting at the end of the row of seats… haha.

Managed to get over to the Oz Embassy today and get my visa app in. Had to nip off to the local hospital to get a chest xray but it was all good. (Australia needs confirmation that you don’t have TB or chest probs if you’ve been travelling in high risk areas for 3 months or more). Even managed to get to the Quantas office… blimey real productive.

More Thai boxing tonight (not me personally though.. arf) then perhaps a saunter along PatPong (or ‘PatPong PingPong’ to the taxi drivers). Heard the portraits ‘done’ with marker pens are quite impressive… um, a very specific skill I understand!
Posted by Hew at 11:47 PM
Sunday, May 19, 2002
(Back in) BANGKOK… and its late

River crossing in southern Cambodia

Taxi wasn’t too bad. Mates Razi and Matt and girl we met called Siobian, all and very relaxed with RUN DMC on the stereo and the road wasn’t oo bad. We changed cars after an hour or so and hit the ‘new’ road made by the army. Ton of rain didn’t help and soon we were fishtailing it around the road, or rather… the mud. Few ferry breaks and a 4hr wait when the road was closed and we were off again. Didn’t make the border before it closed and had to stay in Cheap Charlies (ran by Hanng!) in a place called Koh Khong in Cambodia nr the border. again all very laid back. Quick trip over this morning and we crossed back into Thailand.

Ferry waiting spot for a ‘fun’ 4 hrs whilst road dried in southern Cambodia

Scorching as usual and we grabbed a minibus into Trat. KFC was calling and after scoffing down some crap chicken we said goodbye to Mike and Katie and the others and a few of us headed by air-con back to Bangers. Long old journey but nothing like to the trip back from Siem Riep to Phnom Penh.

Found Sawasdee Smile guesthouse just off the Khao San Road here in Bangkok and hitting the beers after two days on the road. Nice. Hence the forgotten detail about the 2 day trip… this is planned. Already had a baby elephant walk by, green curry been eaten and more beers on the way. Ah….. Bangkok. Place is still crazy.
Posted by Hew at 8:00 AM
Friday, May 17, 2002
SIHANOUKVILLE, South Coast of Cambodia

Off to the Thai border by taxi tomorrow, couple of changes and its back to Thailand. Beach again yesterday, all to easy to let the days slip by.. its tough I know.

Two weeks to the day that the first World Cup match starts. Meeting up with a mate Dunc and some friends for the World Cup in Bangkok before heading down to the islands. Never too late if anyone wants to come over to watch the games.

Posted by Hew at 12:15 AM
Wednesday, May 15, 2002
SIHANOUKVILLE, South Coast of Cambodia

Footie with local kids on the beach in Sihanoukville, south coast of Cambodia

Trip down from Phnom Penh was a non-event really. Fairly comfortable bus, good road and crap kung fu movie on the old tv at the front. Found a nice guesthouse in the kind of backpacker area of Sihanoukville. Place itself is fairly small, spread between 4 beaches. All fairly nice and we’ve done nothing except spend 2 days so far drinking, beaching and mucking about in the sea… so nothing really to update anyone on.

Crab dinner in Cambodia, left to right, Matt, me, Mike, KT, Razzi and the danish fellas

Internet is real expensive here so probably won’t be an update till I head back to Bangkok. Off the the beach this afternoon. Unfortunately I won’t be in the sea agian as a burn on my leg I picked up getting of a motorbike took a turn for the worse and has needed some anti-botics and dressings from the Doctor here. Same thing happened in Hoi An, Vietnam where an insect bite I think I scratched became infected too. Nothing out here like a scratch lasts long here… blink a second and you have to visit the Doc’s. You take the UK climate too much for granted. No problem though, just a bit of real life amongst the beach lounging. Bye for now

Getting all arty on the beach in Cambodia
Posted by Hew at 10:35 PM
Sunday, May 12, 2002
PHNOM PENH

Just about to leave for Sihanoukville. Looks like nasty Gary Glitter could be on his way out. The dirty fella has been living in Cambodia for the past 6 months, but press and popular opinion is about to boot him out. Fine by me.

Dan the cheeky bugger has put a picture of me in the updates. I don’t like piccies of myself. Ah well, this is from a barber’s chair in Veng Vieng, Loas…. not much privacy if your hairdresser gets carried away. Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 9:37 PM
(Back in) PHNOM PENH, Cambodia
In case anyone was wondering how the locks have been tamed

After a lazy final day in Siem Riep (breakfast, market, e-mail, kip, beer food and pool… the normal lazy stuff), yesterday saw everyone get up for the early bus back down to PP.
AC here means ‘Ave we Crap!’, i.e. when you ask if the bus as AC? it means they can then nod.. meaning Ave we Crap!. Yup another scorcher in what was a shitty bus journey. No suspension to speak of, hot ‘air’ (i.e. the ac) and the hellish bumpiest and slowest journey started. 11hrs on a rust bucket being thrown around the ‘seats’ wasn’t pretty. Maybe on the jounrey up we were too numb to care but yesterday’s journey was nuts.

Brightest point of the day was not just finding vanilla wafers in the middle of nowhere (but nice anyway) but the last pit-stop of the day where we were sold water and pineapple by gangs of locals. A few of the sellers had a plate of black charred things – huge plate of big BBQ’d spiders.
English bloke I was chatting to bought one, despite being an arachnaphoic (sp). Why I dunno. She then showed us both her big bag of live spiders and he jumped a mile. Next five mins was spent with her and her mates running around after him, laughing, with live ones in their hands. I had one crawl up my arm till a local woman picked it up and put it in my t-shirt. James Bond here kept his cool and calmly waited till it crawled out the bottom. No reaction meant no fun so they returned to the other English guy. Wasn’t nice by the woman then thowing one into an open window in our packed bus as we pulled away. Larf. Poor fella went through the roof.

Eventually made it back to the guesthouse by the lake here in PP. Shower food and jumped on a moto to see Liverpool claim 2nd in Premiership leaving “poor” old ManUre to qualify for Champs cup next year. Haha.
Doing bugger all today. Recovering from last night, will watch a couple of vids and no doubt carry on last night, um, this afternoon.
Off to south Cambodia tomorrow to a seaside place called Sihanoukville. Should be good for a few days before getting a boat back into Thailand. Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 12:33 AM
Dan doing his magic again. (He’s much better at this stuff than me… can you tell?)

Edited by Dan …Fair few photos found their way into April’s entries
Posted by Hew at 12:18 AM
Saturday, May 11, 2002
More photos turned up in the UK and have been inserted into March’s entries.

Top photo is from the border crossing from Thailand into Laos. Second photo is one from the festival in Chaing Mai, Thailand, of a drum group inside one of the temple grounds
Posted by Hew at 1:09 PM
Thursday, May 09, 2002
SIEM RIEAP, Northern Cambodia

After waking up at 2am to watch THE game on a half tuned TV… and failing to last the game, I was up again at 5am to grab the moto to watch the sunrise at the dramatic Ankgor Wat (the most famous of the temples). Again we weren’t lucky with the clouds but still was great exploring this masssive temple, shining up almost vertical stairs and poking around… and yes more photos.
Bantay Srei, Siem Riep. My favourite temple, I hope you can make out the hundreds of faces across this huge and dramtic place. Needs someone in the pic to help with scale but an awesome place.

We split up after that as the others headed back to town to grab a car for the next temple as I headed back out on the moto to visit it ..

**Excuse me while I throw something at the (real) mouse running past my keyboard. Better than Phnom Penh rats at least.**

the same one. Long assed trip, well my bum was after anyways. Arf. Went next to a waterfall.. and after an hours climb in soaring heat and humidity, came to a waterfall and river in which carvings had been made in the stone of the riverbed and waterfall walls. Point being as that when water passed over these sacred carvings the water would be blessed. Mad stuff and I guess hard to explain but there you go. One last temple on the way back, fighting off hordes of women and kids knocking out water and every stop, and have had toes up this PM.

Proabaly back to Phnom Penh Saturday so quiet day tomorrow before another 11hr plus bus ride. Next stop after that is Sikouanville on the south coat of Cambodia, to hopefully beach it before taking boat back into Thailand. Should be a laugh as especial;y Iw as chatting to a bloke who came into Cambodia that way… flat bottomed boat not suitable for the sea, with battoned down hatches and AK47′s threatening you to stay downstairs to balance the boat. Larf…….? Hmmm. Interesting.

Might give more temple-talk tomorrow if u are lucky.

Off to watch the FULL Arsenal ManUre game… and sink a few. Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 5:09 AM
GLORIOUS ARSENAL DAY 2002

We interrupt this post to tell the world that ARSENAL FC did their second league and cup double in 5 years yesterday.

that is all.
Posted by Hew at 4:58 AM
SIEM RIEAP, Northern Cambodia

Ankgor has been ‘done’. The 100 or so temples are spread out across a 35km odd area of Cambodia, and collectively known as Angkor. Between 800AD and 1300AD odd, the empire of Angkor spread from Thailand to Vietnam. For those less up to date with history in this part of the world, if you’ve seen the TombRaider film then temple scenes were shot there. Massive.

Yesterday saw a few of us take motorbike guides, to the temples we wanted to see. All mad impressive and I’ve taken a shed load if photos. At the second temples, trees have grown inbetween the temple bricks as if the jungle reclaiming the land. All very dramatic stuff (and photos would help of course), but was really helped when it rained and then thundered as we mad our way through the ruins. Larf. Real humid and sweaty too but climbing temples, nosing around old ruins, really storybook stuff.
Ended the day climbing a vantage point to see the sunset but luck wasn’t with us as the clouds didn’t help. After all that bloody climbing too.

Garuda statue on one of the temples in Siem Riep
Posted by Hew at 4:57 AM
Tuesday, May 07, 2002
SIEM RIEAP, Northern Cambodia

Crap, Dan’s managed to put a photo of me up. Its of the lovely me, waiting (on Day 2) for the the slow boat down the Mekong, in a place called Pak Beng, a scruffy nasty little place in Laos. Dun I luuk lovely(!) Oh, and if you think there is a lack of me in the photos, its because I don’t like being in them!

Not a lot to do on our last day in PP. Went to the market and bought some t-shirts, other than that it was toes up in the hammocks, drinking beer and maybe watching the dire Scorpion King film or The Score. Tough.

Well I am still around after the bum-numbing 11hr journey on the bus yesterday. Actually wasn’t that bad (and cheaper than the $22 for the express boat), despite only putting the air-con on for 30mins! Road out of Phnom Penh wasn’t too bad, just the last few hours where you take countless detours around half-built bridges. Mad packed bus though, climbing over rucksacks and/or locals with kids. Did end up covered in a layer of dust, like old Indiana Jones patting the dust off at the end of the trip. They are re-building a lot of the road and should be fine in the next few years. Passed another nasty crash, but at least she was still moving. What was a bit more disconcerting was a group of soldiers de-mining underneath one of the bridges we crossed over… complete with ‘Mine Warning’ signs (on a lot of t-shirts here).

Managed to find a nice guesthouse, complete with satellite tv. There is a certain Arse vs ManUre game taking place Wednesday night (UK), but its being shown at 2am local time Thurs. Not much sleep that night then.

Siem Rieap (SR) is the town nearest to Ankgor, the amazing temples built between 800 and 1200AD. Saw a vid of them in a cafe earlier and they do look truely awesome. Hopefully going to take a car or motorbike to them tomorrow.

Woke up today to rain. Its been cloudy all day so the free Ankgor trip to see the sunset if ogg for today. Um, managed to find a pub instead. But it hasn’t been a total wash out as I managed to buy a $1 toothbrush from the market. Result.

SR is a fairly small but growing place, few nice bars but with hard, dusty roads, it only takes a few drops of rain to turn the streets into mud. Beer’s nice though, happy hour is better though. Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 3:16 AM
Monday, May 06, 2002
Lord knows where this is. Hew can tell you though
Next lot coming v.soon

Dan
Posted by Hew at 11:51 PM
Sunday, May 05, 2002
With no need to get up… um, noone did. Yesterday in another scorcher. Eventually headed out on motorbike taxis (moto) to visit the Silver pagoda here in central PP. Blindingly hot walking around the temples of the Royal Palace, impressive place but the sun was out to melt you. The Silver pagoda (or ‘temple’) had a a solid silver tiled floor, covered for tourists by a carpetted walkway. Hard to describe, but worth a look anyway.

Phnom Penh, random chinese statue at the The Silver Pagdoga Phnom Penh, ‘uge phallic monument at the The Silver Pagdoga Phnom Penh, Budda time at the The Silver Pagdoga

Evening was again a time to jump on a moto, and head to Happy Herb’s Pizza on the riverside. The Lonely Planet guide said it was virtually a PP institution. You order your pizza and ask whether you want it ‘happy’ or if you are brave… ‘very happy’. Um, the ‘happy’ part of it comes from some certain local produce… and you know, it wasn’t too bad. Mad dash then to find a bar along the river showing the game. After a 5 second ‘dash’ we went next door and saw the mighty Arse overcome the dirty blues of Chelsea. ITs all good.

Heading to Siem Riep tomorrow, to then visit the temples of Angkor. Just a little matter of a 11hr bus journey to overcome first…. its not going to be pretty.
Posted by Hew at 2:38 AM
PHNOM PENH, Cambodia

Arsenal 2, Chels 0. Nuff said.
Posted by Hew at 2:28 AM
Friday, May 03, 2002
PHNOM PENH, Cambodia

Yesterday, as you probably guessed was a bugger all day. Watching illegal VCD’s, playing pool, drinking and relaxing by the lakeside. No surprises there, especially given the run around on the Mekong tour… spending countless hours on the boat. This koyboard is buggeredd so ignore the spollinh errors.

Today we got up at the not too unreasonable time of 10 odd and took a minibus coach to the Genocide Museum here in PP. Called S-21, it was formerly a school converted into a prison during the Khmer regime (between 1975 and early 1979). Across Cambodia, nearly 3 million died at the hands of the Khmer and Pol Pot, during the 3years 8months of their power. S-21 was a torture camp, before ‘victims’ were transported to the ‘killing fields” on the outskirts of PP.
Harrowing images… and the museum is fairly untouched. I.e. rough around the edges. The well-known skull-map of Cambodiahas recently been taken down to preserve the skulls. Images of places where blind-folded nurses, teachers, doctors, students were pushed alive into furnaces. Every type of torture you can think of. The only reason being the extermination of any and all èducated/bourgois/capitalist peoples and property. All this was only 20 years ago.
Recovered skulls from the one of the killing fields near Phnom Penh. Display is actually about 30feet high with shelves upon shelves of these skulls.

Next we took the minibus to the fields outside of PP. A temple or monument now full of skulls stands in these now idyllic fields. Around it are the dug graves with information on the nùmbers of bodies in each one. Looks like craters scattered around with ominious signs saying, 70 people buried here, 168 women children buried here, 60 headless bodies buried here. Mind blowing stuff.
Photo (of a photo) of an opened mass grave. Hundreds of killing fields across Cambodia, many remain mined and I’m sure several yet to be excavated.

There wasn’t just one killing field though. There are 343 of them, many recovered but some still mined by the Khmer trying to protect their acts. The famous film is based on the Puset killing field in the mountains.

Ànyways, real interest stuff. Bought back down to earth by wandering around the central market. God spot and a few t-shirts and a pair of sunnies were picked up. Another lazy day tomorrow no doubt so probably no news. Next step is to find the most agreeable way up to Siem Riep, to visit the temples of Ankor Wat. Road is nasty, the trip to the killing fields today was beyond belief.

As an example of the effect of the Khmer Rouge. Cambodia used to lead SE Asia in many ways… in the 60′s it used to take 5 hrs to drive to Siem Riep, now takes 12hrs plus.
Posted by Hew at 9:39 PM
Thursday, May 02, 2002
PHNOM PENH, Cambodia

Nothing to add today. Its another scorcher… there’s a bar in the guesthouse, you have the lake in front of you, hammocks around and a big screen tv. …so … lets say not a lot has been done today.
Posted by Hew at 5:44 AM
Wednesday, May 01, 2002
PHNOM PENH, Cambodia

WILLARD “Oh yeah ? What do you think Chief ?”

CHIEF “I don’t think. My orders are I’m not supposed to know
where I’m taking this boat, so I don’t. But one look at you
and I know it’s gonna be hot, wherever it is.”

WILLARD “We’re going up river about 75 klicks above the Do
Lung bridge.”

CHIEF “That’s Cambodia, captain.”

WILLARD “That’s classified. We’re not supposed to be in Cambodia
but that’s where I’m going. You just get me close to my
destination and I’ll cut you and the crew loose.”

CHIEF “All right, captain.”

***********************************

Yet another Apocalypse Now quote I’m afraid..

Busy couple of days, so I’ll try and fill you in. Picked up Ho Chi Minh City around 8ish and driven 4 odd miles down through the Mekong Delta area of Vietnam. Good tour guide gave some info on Vietnam – mentioned the ‘land of cycles’ is now the land of motorcycles’ (thanks heavily to Honda), but the sad situation is that 50 people a day die on them in Vietnam (population 70m odd). Thankfully did not see any more on the way down.

Anyways, if I thought HCMC was an oven then the Delta took the biscuit… steamin and humid makes a Hew a very sweaty lad. At least I wasn’t dripping alone. Nice. Eventually stopping at a tiny hut, we transferred to a little thin motor boat for our first trip along the back canals of the Delta, to -wait for it – a Stork Farm! Yes, a place where 00′s of storks hang out. Not the most exciting of stops but it was part of the deal to get to Cambodia. Either that or 8 hr coach direct, so we decided to stretch it out. After the stork farm and tens of little kids mobbing us for pens, pepsi or coins, we took the little boats to a large motorboat. On that we sat for 6 hours as we travelled up the Mekong to Chau Doc, our stop for the night before crossing the border. A sauna for a room didn’t help but being so knacked had a fair ngihts kip.

It was only at this point when ‘Brians of Britian’ remembered his folder of semi-important documents, left casually in the hotel in Saigon. Bollocks, I said… and worse. I asked the tour guide to call them and ask them to destroy it. How stupid was that…? Must of been the early start. Ah well, only the tickets were vital as I had the passport on me.. hopefully they can be re-issued.

7am start this morning from Chau Doc (still in Vietnam). We took a few rowboats, rowed by Vietnamese river women for a spin to a miniority village of Cham people (originally from central Vietnam). After being mobbed by kids again (you start to feel like royalty waving every other minute), we headed back to the bigger boat for our trip to the border. Quick lunch on the boat and we were back up to 90+ degrees. Steamy.

After braving the Cambodian border fellas, and handing forms in and then getting the stamps (eventually) we were in Cambodia. Next trip was a 1hr 30 speedboat up the Mekong to near Phnom Penh. Blindlingly sunny, bombing up the Mekong with Underworld Live on the CD walkman… ver nice. Next tranfser was 1hr 30 in a mni van into the capital. The roads? n Yup, very nasty. Huge crater in the middle of the road, constant swerving and it leaves the drivers bombing along the verges at 60 odd. Immediately noticed the difference in the place though. Very flat landscape, and huge Khmer temples popping up alongside the roadside. Nice change after the intensity of Vietnam.

Riverboats viewed from a bridge on the Mekong Delta, south Vietnam.

Bit of a diddle finding a place to stay. Reasonable hotel in the centre, but the eventaully found our way out to the lakeside here in the capital. Not the most modern, but so laid back. $3 a night, veranda into the lake with pool table, hammocks, big chairs, big screen tv with DVD’s. Not bad. Ankor still to be planned, as is the trip to the killing fields… and the next Visa advance for more dollars. More news as it happens… Time to crack into the local Ankor brew.
Posted by Hew at 4:56 AM
Monday, April 29, 2002
HCMC

Failed to do the waterpark yesterday. (3 of us missed the other two who just managed to get the bus). Last night saw 6 of us travel over to the expensive touristy area and visit the inevitable Irish bar. Real expensive and hardly “like the backstreets of Dublin”, but the food was nice.

Made the waterpark in the sweltering heat this afternoon. Inflatable raft slides, black hole drop slides, racing slides and wave pool all completed and checked off. Good way to spend an afternoon. Proabaly the hairest part of the day was the coach back through Saigon rush hour!

Off on a trip to the Mekong Delta tomorrow and will be staying down there before heading by boat into Phonm Penh… Cambodia. The idea about Cambodia is to avoid the roads if at all possible. The roads are… shall we say… creative. Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 5:01 AM
Saturday, April 27, 2002
HCMC, 6pm’ish, and its boiling.

Getting repititive but it was even hotter today. Got up at some stupid time and caught the tour bus to the Cu Chi tunnels. These are a 200km (in all) network of fighting tunnels about 60km away from HCMC. A good day’s tour, going down these tunnels (widened in places for ‘some’ tourists), walking around recreated sites (armoury, hospital etc) and being shown the various man-traps used by the Viet Cong against the south vietnamese and US soldiers. The heat of the midday sun didn’t help much and everyone came away drenched… not a pretty sight but the tunnels were good.
Someone giving an example of a tunnel exit at the Cu Chi ‘fighting’ tunnels outside of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). USed by the VC, these are the tiny fighting tunnels which caused so many problems for the Americans and South Vietnamese armies. They couldn’t find them… and you can see why. And no, I didn’t try and get down this one… have a word! Although we all go down the other tunnels.

Premiership football on Vietnamese TV tonight so its hit a few bars time. Saigon waterpark beckons tomorrow, wave pools, racing slides and drop slides. In haste….
Posted by Hew at 3:50 AM
Friday, April 26, 2002
HCMC

Another scorcher today, and I got up with an appetite… which believe me makes a change. You quickly exhuast the breakfast options out here. Firstly you have scrambled eggs everyday.. then get sick of them… then fried eggs and bread… then bread and soft cheese…. you start running out of options! Toasted cheese and ham is now top of the list along with Ice lemon juice. (This is exciting stuff huh?)

A ‘few’ beers at the loud Guns and Roses Bar last night here in Saigon, left everyone pretty jaded today. So after a late start, we wandered over to the post office and was subjected to the arse backward way of sending parcels here. Patience is a must, what with going backwards, fowards, queue, then another queue. Though I’ve heard Cambodian customs are even worse… we’ll see.
Headed up to the War Remnants Museum today. Desipte being a bit ‘musuem’d’ and ‘temple’d’ out, its well worth a trip. Some real harrowing images of the war, together with some leftover artifacts (arms, planes etc.) The Hiroshima/Nagasaki exhibition amazed everyone too. One picture was of a wall, with the carbonised shadow of a ladder and a man 4km away from the epicentre of the blast.

Cambodian visa now sorted, so its off to the Mekong Delta before taking a deep breath and heading into Cambodia. Actually by chatting to travellers, the people are meant to be really genuine and pleased to see you (unlike Vietnam), its just that the roads are meant to be a real, and I mean real, nightmare. Have to start banging the sleeping pills!
bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 4:53 AM
Thursday, April 25, 2002
HO CHI MINH CITY – aka Sai Gon.

Saigon… shit. I’m still only in Saigon.
Thus the opening lines of Apocalyse Now can be written! Its hot, and as mad as Hanoi.
The ‘Valley of Love’ Dalat, Vietnam, the popular honeymoon spot for Vietnamese. V Cheesy but a nice walk at least!

At a concrete Venus de Milo in the Valley of Love, Dalat, central Vietman. From the left, KT, Mike, Ollie, Lisa and some muppet.

Last couple of days were quite chilled in Dalat. First morning was spent cruising the lake in a swan shaped pedalo. Not very cool, but we had a three ‘swans’ out so it wasn’t as a bad as it sounds (!). Kooky little place Dalat, climate totally different to everything else we have had in Vietnam so far… cloudy, cool and the odd bit of rain. A nice change. What wasn’t to nice a change was my first real bout of food poisoning… not pretty and I’m not going to draw you a picture here. Better now though (I hope).
At the ‘mad monks’ place in Dalat, Vietman. Katie, Lisa (with her gob open) and our guide having a look around this ‘mad’ place.
After the first day with the swans, and wandering around some naff markets, we managed to sort out a private tour for the next day. We visited the much corny ‘Valley of Love’, a now cheesy valley with a lake and lots of naff little statues. Valley was nice, pity about the rest of it. The Dalat Cowboys weren’t very impressive.
Next stop was the ‘mad monks’ temple. This guy has been living alone in this temple for 40 years, the last 30 of which he has painted the life around him, based mostly on his impressive poetry. Had to describe but I bought a canvas picture off him which I hope will post back to the UK. A good stop.

The ‘mad monk’ at his workshop behind the temple he’s lived in alone for 30+ years. He speaks several lanuages and apparently saving to travel the world. Famous in the area, he’s holding the picture I bought with one of the hundreds of poems he’s written.
Next was the ‘crazyhouse’… a kind of wierd ‘alice in wonderland’ concrete construction with a honeycomb of rooms (which you could stay in I think) and small ponds and stone sculptures… sounds strange… it was. The odd piccy might help here, then again it might not. Next was a waterfall and meditation pagoda (temple) on top a pine forested hill.

On a swan-peddle boat in the ever cheesy Dalat, central Vietnam. So much for racing or bumping plans, these things travelled about 1mph… tops.
Five of us at the bottom of a waterfall just outside Dalat, central Vietman.
Anyway, left Dalat this moring and we had a 7hr bus ride into Ho Chi Minh City (formerly known as Saigon). Saigon was actually a district by which the whole city was known. After the mad re-naming that went on after the war, it took a while but now the city is officially known as Ho Chi Minh City (HCM City). As mentioned, as mad as Hanoi, but a few good things to look at over the next couple of days.. a cracking war museum, waterpark and hopefully a trip to Cu Chi tunnels – 200km network of fighting tunnels used in the war. Cambodian visas are being picked up tomorrow… might have my appetite back then too. And no, it wasn’t becuase of the Saigon Beer I had in Dalat – though it was rank. Bye for now.
Posted by Hew at 3:18 AM
Monday, April 22, 2002
DALAT, Central Highlands, Vietnam

Up in the highlands, sitting here with a sweatshirt on and the street recovering from an earlier downpour. Makes a real change from the sun and heat of Nha Trang. Speaking of which, I had to keep mostly out of sight of the sun yesterday, instead took on all comers at the pool table. Might be becoming a bit tasty with all the practice these days.

Left Nha Trang at 8 this morning and travelled to the old (now becoming v modern) French hill station of Dalat, kind of capital of the central highlands of Vietnam. 7hr jounrey, stopped off at a 13th century temple (with some ‘modern’ graffitti) then a stop of the top off a massive hillpass with a great view of the valley below. Twisty roads galore and it was hold on to your lunch time, unfortunately all too apparent when we passed an accident with a cyclist and truck… the covered body told its own story… the big rolling trucks cannot stop and if you make a wrong turn on the bike… deadski I’m afriad. Seen a few now… heard of many more. V sad.

Anyway, pulled into Dalat and much cooler than Nha Trang. Nice hotel, but then greeted properly with a real downpour. Funny place Dalat, same old peeps trying to sell you crap and get you to buy from one rubbish restaurant or another. Same same. Climate makes a nice change, we’ll see if the market and the town seems tomorrow. This being after the show-down with Irish Ollie on the swan-shaped pedaloes on the lake first thing tomorrow. ta ta
Posted by Hew at 8:00 AM
Saturday, April 20, 2002
NHA TRANG, damn hot… real hot.

Bit lobster today, even under the sun shade yesterday, the cool breeze brings in the heat and the burn so yep, the ol’ knees bore the brunt again. Few more photos are now up (thanks to Dan Wardle)… hit the ‘Archives’ link at the top of this page and go to ‘Arrival’ page. The select photos are of Bangkok and Chiang Mai with a few from the trek.
Posted by Hew at 10:16 PM
NHA TRANG

Coupla days break from the updates. Doesn’t help with Internet shops whose connection keeps falling over and the power failures which seem pretty common.
Thursday (as today is Saturday) was a lazy day sitting under sun shades on the beach. Did some paragliding which was a fun but not much else except swimming and getting a little sun. A curry and a few beers in the evening and it was very relaxing.

YEsterday was a day’s boat trip with a tour group called TM Brothers. Hyperactive tour leader (FunkyMonkey) and his matey (CrazyMan) took us on a trip round four islands in the Nha Trang bay area. Snorkelling round the reefs on the first stop was good, then we headed round to another island to moor up in the small bay and enjoy the massive spread they put on for lunch. Entertainment was laid on by “Vietnam’s No 1 boy band”, aka FunkyMonkey on backings vocals and homemade drumkit, CrazyMan on tambourine and the cook (complete with shades and cap) on guitar and vocals. All a good laugh despite us all having to get up and dance to the lambada. After lunch was the floating bar, a round ring containing CrazyMan whom was had to swim out and meet and try and consume as much red wine as possible. Couple of stops on the way back for snorkelling and we headed back, a lot redder and then when we left. All good stuff. More beers and pool last night and yet another good day in Nha Trang.\

Today was another v lazy beach day, toes up reading in the shade, with the odd dip in the sea to break the day up. Suppose I should start thinking about the next stop…
Posted by Hew at 3:37 AM
Wednesday, April 17, 2002
NHA TRANG, Vietnam <– beachy

Braved the 14hr overnight bus last night. Wasn’t packed which made a huge difference, as did the sleeping pills I bought in Hoi An. (yes they are legal, and no she wouldn’t sell me valium!). Road out of Hoi An a nightmare though, which then continued till we made our next stop at 3am… 9hrs later… quite a stretch.
Arrived in Nha Trang about 10ish and thanks to a card Ollie and Lisa had (good referrals are worth their weight in gold when travelling), found a real little hotel for $5 a night. All good. After a wash and brush up, we made our way down to the cracking beach here, just 5mins from the hotel. Had a ice-cream cocktail (these ARE the way forward by the way) and wasted the afternoon on a sunbed (shaded mind, the day was a scorcher).

Nha Trang is defintely a place to spend a few days, relaxing after all the ‘strains’ of shopping in Hoi An (!) and the lugging about through Laos and northern Thailand. When I feel like shifting my rear end, it’ll be up to the central highlands to a place called Dalat, before hitting the mighty Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon) for a few.
Posted by Hew at 4:24 AM
Tuesday, April 16, 2002
HOI AN

After few days here its time to move on south. Spent yesterday picking up clothes (didn’t need much altering at all), then the afternoon at the beach. Still not very brown, what with being a pale whitey fella, but managed not to burn my knees which all helps. A bit overcast so was nice relaxing in/by the sea. More pesky sellers offering your their stuff, their persistence is amazing (pity their stuff isn’t) but they have their patter down fairly well. When they say “maybe later” and you reply, “no never”… all you get is a big laugh and a “aaaah, never say never, I see you later…”
Anyway, evening was down to a nice pasta meal and a few games of pool. And yes, after rice, rice, rice and more noodles, the odd pasta/pizza/and yes even steak is a real change. You take so much for granted at home… obvious yes, but so damn true.

Today started as a scorcher but has become more hazy so even I can walk around in my lovely floppy jungle-jim hat. V attractive. Building up the courage for the 14hr nightbus I have this evening as I travel down to Nha Trang. Place is meant to be a bit dodge, especially around the beach at night so probably won’t spend to log before I head into the mountains to a place called Dalat. Anyway, apparently I’ve been told of a great quiet beach bar with hammocks, pool tables and sun loungers which may ‘make’ me stay an extra day. They have a bar too.
Life on the river – painted boats in Hoi An, Vietnam.
Posted by Hew at 2:34 AM
Sunday, April 14, 2002
HOI AN, 2mins after post below, and still as chuffed… hot and damn sunny (for a change)!

Coach yesterday wasn’t too much hassle, only 4 hours odd in a coach up and over a few mountains in Hoi An. Cracking views from the coach, and thankfully we past through Danang which to be honest looked like an armpit.
Found a nice hotel, but again for $8, but have to say its luxury after the places during the past few weeks. Hoi An is quite nice, the older streets haven’t been touched for 120 years odd and are great to wander around. Hoi An is really known for its cloth shops, places (yup with cloth) but where you sit down, open any of the catalogues (Next, fashion shows etc), pick what you want then choose which ever colour you want… a few hours later its one fitting and there you go. Chatting to people up country, packpackers spending $120 on suits, shirts trousers, skirts whatever…. and we found a place thanks to Irish mates Ollie and Lisa this morning. Spent about $40 on t-shirts, shorts, baggy trousers and some shirts. Won’t last 10 years but its cheap, and a great experience flicking the catalogues knowing anything can be knocked up for you.

Hired a motorbike this afternoon and headed over to the very nice beach about 4km odd from Hoi An centre. Lovely yellow sand, and cool water and hardly a cloud in sight. Met up with some Irish girls and had a very relaxed afternoon trying not to get burnt. With this background came the constant hassle to buy crap jewellry, pineapple, tiger balm and even to have a pedicure. Did your head in but still a good day. Out for a ‘few cheeky’ beers tonight to celebrate the arrival of a certain ‘nephew’… ta ta for now
Posted by Hew at 3:42 AM
HOI AN (’bout halfway down Vietnam)

Very worthy of a single post is the long awaited news that my sister can finally stop waiting… and waiting. Yup, BENJAMIN JAMES TURNER, was born this morning at 4.30am odd, weighing in at a healthy 7lbs 13oz. Mum and baby are doing well and everything went well, despite the wee fella keeping everyone waiting for 11 odd days. Anyway, mum and baby (and dad of course) are doing fine, not sure about my mum (now Granny), as she is still on cloud nine with little hope of coming down for a long time.

Back v soon….
Uncle Hew
Posted by Hew at 3:31 AM
Thursday, April 11, 2002
HUE CITY, cloudy, overcast mild to the point of ‘jumper’ time.
Plan of the huge Vinh Moc tunnels in the Demilitarised zone, central Vietman. Huge in length, not in tunnel size! These are the ‘living tunnels’ in which the village population lived for years underneath the B52 bombings. (As opposed to the fighting tunnels I saw further south).

A real lazy day today as yesterday was spent bombing around the DMZ in a minibus. The other guys I’ve been knocking around are doing the same trip today so its bugger all today except the odd hour on the ‘net and maybe taking on the Vietnamese at pool later on.
Was up at 5.30 yesterday, was all a bit of a struggle. Minibus picked me up and our small group of about 8 drove the 2 hours odd up to Dong Hoi. Driving rain didn’t put our driver off who swerved, beeped and hassled the other roadusers like a true pro.
Stopping breifly a derlict church (site of a pitched gun battle) we head a quick breafast before heading off up Highwway 9 towards the Lao border. Agent Orange and the slash/burn tactics of the locals have scarred the mountainous landscape in the middle of the country. We stopped at a few strategic points held by the South Vietnamese and Americans during the way, and had the aspects of the Ho Chi Minh trail explained to us. (Basically not one trail but a whole network of key paths used to supply the VC in the south).
We wound our way up to the site of the Khe San airbase used by the US, then became an area surrounded by the VC and north Vietnamese army. Not much to see now as everything is being overgrown by the guide and his photos were good listening. Flying back to Dong Hoi, we had lunch and headed noth along Highway zone through the DMZ. (Basically a 10km wide band of country along the 17 parallel, separarting the former north/south, which was fair game for US carpet bombing against the advancing north vietnamese). Crossed the bride to the ‘north’ and headed to the Vinh Moc tunnels, an amazing 2000+m network of tunnels lived in by the locals/north vietnamese during the war. Cracking experience, and some good info by the guide… made more interesting by the fact that the tunnels have hardly been touched. There is another set of tunnels below Saigon called the Cu Chi tunnels, most people visit both and I’ll probably do the same. (Cu Chi are smaller though, given they were used for fighting and not living in – as such they have been widened a bit so are not in their original state… not that I would fit anyway).

Entrance to the Vinh Moc tunnels.

Headed back to Hue and it wasn’t a bad day… hopefully not too many dull photos. Few beers in the PM and some pool at a packed travellers bar along the Perfume River here in Hue and that was yesterday. Booking a direct ticket to Doi An later today, probably bypass Danang… Hoi An is much mentioned by everyone who’s gone there… amazing cheap, tailored clothes of all descriptions and some nice beaches nearby. Off to count my insect bites and try not to get knocked over. adios.
Khe San Airbase – an American airbase in the highlands of Vietnam. Just before the Tet Offensive this airbase was surrounded by VC and the NVA (North Vietnamese Army), a diversionary tactic used by to draw US resources away from other areas to help maintain this position. The American occupied in holing this base, the Tet Offensive moved to attacked the now more vunerable major South held cities. Not much to see there now except to hear the history and view the relics left behind by the US withdraw.

Posted by Hew at 9:18 PM
Wednesday, April 10, 2002
HUE CITY, about 160km south of Demilitarized Zone (DMZ)

Arrived this morning around 10.30am, only an hour and half late… 131/2 hrs, and to be fair wasn’t too bad at all. Bit of sleep, helped by Mr friendly sleeping pill.
Hue has in the past been Vietnam’s cultural and politcal centre (and no, I’m not giving a history lesson) and is the main kicking off place to/from Hanoi. Fairly small and much much less hectic than Hanoi.
Hotel is $8 a night which I guess is average, but I am splashing out a bit and by chance have air-con and a tv (3 Vietnamese channels only), which isn’t bad.

Booked an all day tour back up the country to visit the actual DMZ and see some sights/caves/ex-US camps. 6am start tomorrow, so maybe only a few of the Hurda (Hue’s local brew). Although I pepper these updates with beer references (and to be fair there is a few beers drunk every night.. medicinal you understand), this is not a lager tour of SE Asia… honest. Anyway the tour has about 10 featured stops so going to be hectic, the Vinh Moc caves is the one place I want to spend a bit of time but more of that in the next update.

Hired a crappy bike for the princely sum of 50p today… and the bike looked it. After only 20mins heading around the forbidden city here in Hue, me puncture paid me a visit and a-wandering back I came. Got my 50p back so of course I was happy as larry *sigh*.
Random modern art found alongside the river in Hue, central Vietnam. Why? I dunno.

A lot hotter here and apparently Sai Gon (to give the Vietnamese) is scorching. The beach is 15km away which is tempting given that I will probably take a relaxing day after the tour. However after chatting to people coming up the country (as I head down), Danang has an awesome China beach nearby which sounds good, before I head to the popular and apparently very pretty Hoi An. After that its probably Nha Trang for a bit of R&R, then maybe Dalat in the central Vietnamese highlands then Saigon.

Yup, money being spent but its all good. Day after next I will probably sit down and start putting more links into the previous updates. bye for now
Posted by Hew at 2:09 AM
Tuesday, April 09, 2002
HANOI (still in Hanoi…), 7,15pm off

Felt a lot better after a fair kip and it was off to Uncle Ho’s (the mighty Ho Chin Minh) mauseluem (sp).

The imposing Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Hanoi, where the old fella himself is embalmed. Photo include the dramatic guard changing the happens every couple of hours.

Bags checked in cameras, checked in, dress code respected, no hands in pockets, no talking and you follow the huge queue into the mighty gray building. And there’s Uncle Ho embalmed in his glory… though his wish whilst alive was to be cremated, he is on display in Hanoi and looking pretty damn good for it (died in 1969 i think). He takes a holiday every December to January to Moscow to get ‘touched up’ for another year of public show. Next we wandered off to the Ho Chi Minh Museum nearby, a sorry example of modern art and head-up-your-arse efforts to represent the life and times of the revered (sp) man and his achievements. Not impressed but there you go.

After futile attempts to find a cinema open and showing non-dubbed films (the same voice plays all roles in the dubbed films here!), we headed back to the guesthouse via bloody expensive bar for a phat double cheeseburger. However, tour fella then told us there was no beds on the sleeper we had hoped to get tomorrow down to Hue. He suggested he could buy the tickets on the black market for tonights train, but only ‘soft seat’ i.e. upright seats for the lovely 14 odd hour journey. Could be worse, and yer man phoned a guesthouse to sort us out tomorrow for accomodation in the packed place too. Sorted, so we are off in 40mins to the train station to ‘enjoy’ the ride. I have opened a book on the average hawk/spits in the first hour… my (little) money’s on 45… adios for now.

Me about to board the train linking the two main cities in Vietnam. However I only took this train for 12 odd hours from Hanoi to Hue.
PS If anyone speaks to Sweaty, can u tell him to check One2One. The two texts he sent me keep coming through again and again… probably a glitch on the local service provider (i.e. he ain’t being charged) but can u tell him anyway. ta
Posted by Hew at 5:23 AM
Monday, April 08, 2002
HANOI, Vietnam

Me passed out at halftime during the Arsenal victory over Tottenham on Cat-Ba Island, Vietnam. I woke when this was taken and watched the rest of the game, by the way.

Back to Hanoi after 3 day tour around Haolong Bay, north east Vietnam. A leisurely 3 days I suppose, especially after the rigors of the 3 day Thailand trek. Picked up 3 days ago (no surprise, after being away for 3 days) by coach and driven 4 hours odd to Haolong City. After a brief lunch stop we all piled onto large boats and spent the next 3 hours toddling our way across the bay to a fantastic cave in one of the 1,600 odd islands and rocks in the bay.

Setting off across Haolong Bay, NE Vietnam.

Amazing sights of all the small islands poking their way out of the water… real James Bond location stuff. Cave was good, something like an expensive Star trek set, pity the concrete path and coloured lighting kind of made it feel a bit fake, but huge carved cave was impressive regardless. Another 2-3 hours on the boat and we made Cat Ba island. A short coach trip took us to the best hotel I’ve stayed in since Bangkok… even a tv in the room. A few beers and a great seafood dinner late and started to feel human again. Most of Cat Ba is national park and is probably the biggest island around Haolong Bay. Even managed to catch the mighty Arsenal step on the nasty Tottenham 2-1.
Haolong Bay NE Vietnam, a view from one of the ‘Star Trek’ type limestone caves in one of the ilands in the bay.

Next day was an early pick up followed by a nail biting 45 coach ride obn half finished roads. 1.30hr trek up a hill in the park saw us at the top of a hill over looking the park and the island… yep, more photos. More damp than Thailand and it was sweaty stuff but a good climb anyway. The afternoon was free and despite being overcast, i headed to the beach and found the sea pretty warm… good lazy afternoon mucking about in the massive waves rolling in from the sea. The second evening highlight surely had to be the Thai ‘disco’ we found ourselves in. Entering at the end of a karaoke set, the music then turned to hard euro techno-cheese and the vietnamese into in… all very hectic.. too much for this knacked out reporter.

Easy journey back to Hanoi today, 2 odd hours on the boat followed by the 4 hr drive back, nice coach too (this is a real luxury by the way). Heading to crash now, though just sorted out the train to Hue, about halfway down the Vietnamese coast. A festival in Hue made the train booking and accomdation tricky but the organiser feller here has been a star and it seems we are sorted to leave on Wednesday for the 14 hr sleeper down the country.

Dry update, sorry… knacked! Might get round to adding more tomorrow. Plus I need to get round to updating the previous entries with photos. Hopefully tomorrow.
Posted by Hew at 8:17 AM
Friday, April 05, 2002
HANOI
Blind gents deciding to cross the road in Hanoi, the bikes aren’t slowing down

Two days in and i can give the thumbs up to another beer, draft Tiger beer goes down well. The slightly sweet Hanoi local brew ain’t bad either.
I couldn’t blame the beer either for the first night. Still sober, and the heavens opened. I was wandering down a street looking at dodgy t-shirts, only to miss a storm drain and down my leg went, then I fell flat on my hands and knees. No damage done, except by chance I had managed to time my tumble in the dirt and rain in front of about 20 Vietnamese sheltering from the rain in a shop. Made them laugh. *sigh*. Laff.
Had a nice local salad and more of the popular vietnamese spring rolls. Few beers back at the guesthouse and I survived the first 8 hours in Hanoi.
Hanoi, mad for bikes

Yesterday was a kind of set up day and was spent wandering around this mad place, visiting a temple in the middle of the lake (Ngoc San I think), changing money and finding an ATM. Visited the Revolutionary Museum in the avo and learnt about the conflicts round here over the past 150 years, learnt about Uncle Ho (Ho Chi Minh – revered here) and about the nasty French colonialist (boo) and the imperialist Americans (boo boo). Interesting to see how 20th century history portrayed here without the US-movie filter that I only had beforehand.

Saw a repeat of Liverpool Bayer Leverkusen (sp) at the most expensive hotel bar in Hanoi before we headed out to a popular eaterie called Little Hanoi. Busy restaurant meant we had a few beers on the street corner, from a friendly local with a lager barrel. 15p a glass of beer and it was probably the best I’ve had in SE Asia. At 15p, um I didn’t haggle. Very nice sitting on tiny plastic stools watching the world go by. Plus the food (eventually) was great.
Kiddie-control, Old Quarter Hanoi

Today was the day-tour of Hanoi. Started off with a pagoda on the banks of the massive lake here, followed by the one-legged pagoda and Ho Chi Minh’s house on stilts behind the presedential palace. All good. Next up came lunch followed by the natural history museum and the Literary Temple. History of these places will be held for a rainy day. Day ended with a walk around the old quarter and big market here in Hanoi (where the guesthouse is). All good and lots of dull photos no doubt. Katie not feeling too hot so Michael and I headed out to Little Hanoi again for a cheeky meal. Beers again on the pavement waiting for a table and we ending up chatting with and eating with a Swedish couple who have travelled up Vietnam from Saigon (whereas I am travelling down). Few good tips on places and a few beers and things are starting to pan out about travelling options going down… we’ll see.
Hanoi’s opera house, famous in numerous photos pre and following the conflict with the US

Forgotten a few things about places I went today so might edit the above. I have photo’s uploaded courtesy for Dindan Wardle so all going well (and when I have a spare hour) there will be photos in the text below. PLEASE NOTE that the ARCHIVE link at the top/bottom of this page is now active and the updates are now organised by date/country. View them soon-ish for a few photos!

Updates may be scarce over the next day or so given that I am heading out on a 3 day trek/tour to NW Vietnam, near Haolong Bay, and the caves and beaches nearby. Might even miss the Arsenal Tottenham game! Horrors. Oh, I am getting the odd abuse text on my mobile (always welcome and fairly cheap by the way), although responding to them seems to be tricky. Giz a bell if u are bored.
Posted by Hew at 4:06 AM
Wednesday, April 03, 2002
HANOI
Coming soon

Ta daaaa. Thanks to the skill of matey Dan we have a photo up! I am building the favours I owe him and if I am lucky more will go up, either in the text or via the photo’s link. The pic below is me (duh) looking very white and not me best (!) after a days treking, heading down a valley on an ele called Kai. Fella next to me is Lorenzo, an American… nuff said hehe!
Posted by Hew at 6:41 PM
HANOI, 7pm ish

Flight was no problems, thumbs up for Vietnam Airlines. Just over an hour flight and then we landed….
Dodgy fella offered us $10 to take us to the guesthouse… should’ve known better when he gave us the tumbs up and said ‘Chelsea… yeah’. The hour and a half ride was the most stomach churning, buttock clenching trip of my life. Hanoi is mad.. nuts.. crazy. Bangkok has nothing on this place. Thousands.. neigh, thousands upon thousands of cyclists and motorcyclists burn their way through the traffic amongst the few cars. Central line means nothing if you can get through and skip the cycle or car in front. Car/bike chicken – who would break first seem the order of the day and it all seems so casual. Amazing.
One crossroads had 600+ people snarled up beeping and pushing their way through… messy.

Didn’t help with laughing boy tak8ing around all the other hotels trying to get them to ponce our business to them. Speedo was screwed, no handbrake – a real taxi banger mucking around the sea of bikes and motorbikes.

Guesthouse is central and okay.. lets see what Hanoi has top offer. Chilled Tiger beer in the glass, The Doors banging away, outside the madness reigns. Jubbly.

Oh, my mobile works by the way… just dial the normal 07957 … to say hello. Time difference is 6hrs.
Posted by Hew at 3:56 AM
Tuesday, April 02, 2002
VIENTIANNE, Wednesday 3rd April

Killing a bit of time before the flight to Hanoi. Last night saw a ‘redder than usual’ Hew wanderer out for the evening. We had another curry before checking money and realising that we are running on vapour and dollars till Vietnam.

Unfortunately we will be missing the Thai/Lao New Year. They celebtrate it on the 13th-15 of April, alos known as the water festival. Its the height of dry season here and basically gives licence to wander the streets with buckets of water soaking anyone and everyone in sight… although the fellas at the guesthouse said you have to keep half an eye out for the police. Sounds real good and I had planned to be in Bangkok to meet up with Immo and Greg, the german fellas from the trek in Chiang Mai. Doesn’t look as though it can be made… a pity as the locals are a bit surprised when you mention that you are leaving without being here for the 3 days. They celebrate it here and in Thailand, and possibly Cambodia. (My port of call after Vietnam.)

Going to miss the Lao ‘laap’ salad which always goes down well. Crispy noodles with veggies and egg may make an appearance in Vietnam. Tried Mekong weed in Veng Viang, a type of pressed, dried river weed with spicies.. twasn’t too bad. Had suvan something-or-other the other night, a type of dried beef spiced up and pressed flat. Kind of like beef jerky but not as chewy, plus it came with the Lao speciality, which is a kind of achovy paste. The paste was fresh and very tangy, not like the stuff in jars at other locals cafe’s which had been out in the sun for too long… hard to describe but dogs spring to mind.

Next stop Hanoi, adios.
Posted by Hew at 9:34 PM
VIENTIANNE, one scorching day
Approaching the Golden Stupa
Relaxing day today. After picking up my cleaning from mad little old lady round the corner, I headed off to the pool, at a hotel in town. Washing is always better smelling clean rather than old mouldy water after the last attempt at getting washing down by ‘mad Manuel’ in Veng Viang. Twas gorgeous by the pool today. Despite $3 entry we had loungers, bright hot sun, and two pools to chose from. Nothing special about them but the kiddies pool meant we could easily sit down and read books remaining cool. At one oclock we pushed off as the heat turned up a notch… seriously heavy sunshine.

The Golden Stupa
I burnt my knees.

Grabbed a battered tuk tuk up to the Vietnamese Embassy to pick up the visas/passports then wandered up the road in the heat to That Luang, Laos’ most sacred temple. At the centre is the ‘golden stoopa’ and type of pyramid structure temple (golden obviously) which seemed to glow in the sun and blue background of the sky… very impressive, but too damn hot. Tuk tuk back to by flight tickets to Hanoi, via the market for a sniff around and its siesta time / after sun time… my knees are now glowing (lobster red obviously).

Left: Making friends in Laos, note his mate’s camera though
Right: Transport in Vientienne (Mike and I)

Vietnam tomorrow so might not be an update. Really looking forward to seeing the country, splashed out on a country-specific guide to make the most of it. ta ta for now… my knees hurt.

Vientienne – top of the war memorial
Posted by Hew at 1:21 AM
Sunday, March 31, 2002
VENTIANNE, Easter Monday 1st April.

Bit of a doing day day today before the heat kicks in. Its a kind of strength zappin heat during the day, I think I’m slowly getting acclimatised and probably much better than when I first arrived but at the end of the day I am still a paley ‘hey buddy’ foreigner.

Last night was a good temperature given the rain earlier. A nice Italian restaurant which took visa set us up with some nice food, before we headed over across the road to sniff out draft Beerlao. Bumped into an irish couple who we knew from Thailand (the route down the mekong is popular and we’ve seen shed loads of peeps from the boat). Out in the open garden, suppin on a few beers, with some old house on the sound system… and we could almost be in Spain. Ver nice, prolly return there for some pool tonight.

Bought some dollars this AM and headed out to the Vietnamese Embassy here in Ventianne. After some deliberation we opted to pay an extra $45 for an express visa (100 ‘dolla’ all in). Other option was to wait till Friday, pay standard $55 then fly on same day (the last day of our Lao visa). All got a bit tight so the extra was stumped up.

Reserved spots on the Wednesday flight to Hanoi. We could flown on the infamous Lao Aviation. This is the company that hasn’t released saftey records since 1992 and is shunned by most airlines. Apparently they fly by visual means, if a destination is cloudy they will circle hoping for a gap in the clouds and if one isn’t around then they’ll return to their departure point to then try again. Nice. Saying that the Irish couple are flying today with them and I’m sure its all fine… although not bothered my self, Katie was not going to put herself anywhere near the Lao national airline, so its with Vietnamese Airlines we’ll place ourselves Wednesday afternoon.

Day and a bit to kick around, and try not to spend too much money.
Posted by Hew at 8:51 PM
VENTIANNE, Laos capital. Easter Sunday (31st March)

Managed to get up at 6am for the busride to Ventianne yesterday. Only 3hrs this time, stopping along the way to pick the locals and their produce up again. Another Mr Hawker and spitter (and his friends) broke up the monotonous snarl of the engine by frequently doing their stuff then opening a window and releasing it to the world. Not very pleasent but hey, what can you do.

Arrived at the very hectic busstation in the capital, in a screaming heat. Found a good guesthouse provided by Jo who left Veng Viang a day earlier. $8 for single bed with private WC/cold shower is about the going rate, although way more that I’ve been paying up country. (Obviously Hew, this being the capital). After stepping out for breaky and having wandering round by the Mekong, I hit the national museum which was okay before toes up to recover from the early start. Museum a bit dry but worth a gander. Was woken
from nodding off at 5pm by a hectic storm, wind rain lightening.. the full monty… and a bit more rain during the night means today is lovely and cool.

We went to a great curry house last night on the Mekong river… twas excellent food too. Ventianne is fairly colonial with wide
streets and grand old houses… a strange place that needs a bit more exploring. Watched Man U Leeds yesterday before heading back
to the guesthouse. Footie on everywhere so no trouble catching up with the mighty gooners and the argyle.

Hired some bikes and headed for the morning market today. Nothing much of note except for the odd tv and tube of toothpaste. Then read in the guide that 2 bombs were detonated there last year, and warned people to check before going. Seemed anyway. Headed to the war memorial and ended up chatting to a trainee monk – they love to practise their English if you can afford to stop for while. Still hot though another rainfall this afternoon helped. Few temples this afternoon which were interesting, siesta time now before hunting out a bar that serves the mighty local brew Beerlao in DRAFT! Nice.

Happy Easter to all, no real sign of it here as you’d expect. Just read the news about the Queen Mum, guess the tv schedules are all out. I wonder if a Bond film will still make it over Easter? Anyway, onto brighter news – there will be another update shortly no doubt, off the get vietnamese visa and flight tomorrow am. adios. As mentioned photos may be up soon if Derek “IT” Wardle can do his stuff. Feel free to e-mail with any news or gossip or stuff.
Posted by Hew at 1:55 AM
Thursday, March 28, 2002
VENG VIANG, Laos. Good Friday.

After a fair nights sleep, we were up fairly early to hunt breakfast and meet up with those wanting to visit a cave. After a bit of haggling a price of 20,000Kip each was arranged with the landlord. He is a real funny bloke, look like a Lao version of Manuel from Fawlty Towers, smoothing his thinning hair over his head, tiny ‘Hitler-ish’ moustache and hardly any English except facial expressions , noises and hand guestures. He ticked us off when he tried to sting us for more on the way to the caves but after he tried appealing to me in mock stupidity and getting nowhere, i did the sensible thing, stepped back and let the 3 girls (katie, Jo and Jaqueline) take over the negotiations. It wasn’t pretty and the girls won.
- Bluey green water of the river
Anyway, walked across the river (non-locals pay 3,000 kip for using the bamboo bridge, so we just waded across the water!) and met the tuk tuk. This turned out to be a wooden hand made trailer pulled by literally an engine with a wheel on each side. Uphill saw us break about 3mph, flats we accelerated to about 10mph. Anyway 6km later we pulled up next to this blue-greeny deep pool (coloured by the rock). A great swimming/swing spot.
Swimming spot below the caves near Veng Vieng…

Caves were so dangerous especially when your torch gives out
We first headed up a virtual rockface to get into Poukham Cave. An impressive place with a reclining golden budda in the middle, and we navigated the nasty sharp rocks around to the other side of the cave… at which pint my torch packed in. Anyway, a real hot day made in sweaty the cave and we headed back with our “guide”, yep Manuel of the guesthouse acted as a ‘guide’. Well a guide if you count ‘helloooo’ as helpful. Indiana Jones here then tried his best to kill himself by slipping and sliding down a big rock, but managed to find the only place in the dark cave with a smooth-ish side to do it on. Could’ve been real nasty.

After the hill, we able to swim in the river before heading back on our mechanical ‘wonder’. We spent the afternoon with toes up in hammocks in a river side bar away from everyone with the glourious setting sun on the mountains, Morcheeba on the speakers and cold Beerlao in hand. Jubbly.
Me jumping in waterfall near Veng Vieng

Last night was Full Moon. May head to Koh Pha Ngan for the full-on party next month though it is very very hectic. We had our own party here in Veng Viang. After food and a wander we headed back to the river bar, all very laid back, with more music and cool beers. All very good.

Probably off to the captial Ventianne tomorrow, to then arrange Vietnam. An easy day today no doubt. Photos should be up soon. adios.
Posted by Hew at 9:01 PM
Wednesday, March 27, 2002
VENG VIANG, Laos

Katie and Jo pre-full moon.

Quiet ones sch-meit ones. Well I said it would prolly be quiet and I guess it was in a way. Up at 6 to get the tuk tuk to the bus station (open wasteland). Baguette bought, water on board and we were away. 7hrs odd was a doddle compared to the boat trip, hopefully everything will pale compared to that. Mr Laos geezer hawking coughing and spluttering his way with us didn’t help but he soon fell asleep and we were all left to concentrate on the rollercoaster bends the driver seemed to take. Fairly hectic but nothing compared to the slow boat (can u guess the boat was a nightmare).

Building your own house (means you’re rich)… Laos style.

Anyway, arrived in Veng Viang around 2 odd and we managed to wander 50metres to find a cracking little guesthouse with the friendliest landlord I’ve come across. Turned out that 6 of us in all from the bus have taken rooms… 4000kip per room with private shower/wc… luxury in this neck of the woods. The town is geared for travellers with a fair few bars, tv’s showing films and a generally relaxed and chilled atmosphere. Chatting to an Irish couple and they said they knew of people chipping Ventianne and coming back here to relax for a few days.

Downtown Veng Viang
Anyway, landlord suggested the rubber rings down the Nam Chong river today so off we all went. 3hrs of toes up in a rubber ring drifting down the river, with a backdrop of soaring mountains and peaks.. together with glorious hot sunshine. Its all good. Didn’t take any money though as we didn’t realise you could buy beer on the way. One woman had even set up a kind of round ‘island’ bar in the middle of the river. Nice fat burger later and starting to feel human again after the early start.

Prolly caves, swimming and/or bikes tomorrow.. we’ll see. Its a nice place and suitably chilled after the last few days travelling. Looking forward to Vietnam big time.

Sunset and the river bar pre-full moon.

Hope alls well with everyone. ta. ta.
Posted by Hew at 6:15 AM
Monday, March 25, 2002
LUANG PRABANG, northern Laos

Bought ticket for Veng Viang today, deaprting tomorrow am, 7hrs on a bus down country. Sounds like a nice stop to break the journey up though, rafting and caves to do/see so shouldn’t be too bad.
Funny old place Laos, we’ve been trying to pick up why the lack of smiles compared to Thailand. Waiters and shopkeepers take your money (kip) alright but seem to be down in the dumps doing it. Different but its not stopping us enjoying this place.

Prolly a quiet one today/tonight, we have to get a tuk tuk at 6.30am sharp to get to the bus in good time to get a seat. Another roller coaster no doubt. Anyway off to stretch legs and see more of the town. ta ta.
Posted by Hew at 8:59 PM
LUANG PRABANG, northern Laos
- View from Royal Palace, yes I did climb that in 40 degrees heat

Did the walking thing yesterday and this place makes a change from the madness of Bangkok and the bustle of Chiang Mai. A bright sunny and hot day yesterday (as is today… steamin hot). Took a few snaps of the Mekong and visited the Royal Palace Museum. Walked up this steep hill in the centre of town up to another temple and took a few more snaps of the town. Met the other and we went for a food mand few beers last night. The local luang prabang style salad called laap is real nice, and the local beer, Beerlao, is a big step up from the Chiang beer a few nights previously which just made you feel like crap. Even managed to watch the dismal Liverpool Chelsea game and see the lack lustre red sneak it at the last.

Boiling hot today and we shared a minicoach to the Kuang Si falls. These falls are about 26km away and half the road seems like a dirt track. Amazing place with lots of small tiered falls of turquiouse (sp) coloured water leading up to an impressive waterfall. After wandering around we found a spot to swim and jump off the cliffs. Nice spot, and yes more photos.

Now trying to figure a away out of here as the Lao’s seem less helpful when serving you for some reason. Makes things harder. Anyway, current plan is to get the bus 7hrs to Veng Viang, which is just above the captial city (a further 3hrs). Apparently a nice spot to break the journey back to Ventianne.
Our guesthouse in Luang Prabang

First photos have arrived in Uk and perhaps there may be a way to get some up soon. Stay tuned…

View of the Mekong from the top
Posted by Hew at 12:33 AM
Saturday, March 23, 2002
LUANG PRABANG, northern Laos
Got up in good time for the short van ride down to the quayside for the 3min ferry across the Mekong to Laos. About 8 to a ferry, and was a short trip, glad I wasn’t in the boat which had to take a 6ft fridghe across. Visa stamps and a fistful of Lao Kip in my hands we all headed to the slow boat. Shed loads of travellers, probably around 40 odd and the first days journey used 2 boats. All started okay, fair jammed in with bodies and it was a fair day to toddle along down the Mekong.
Leaving Thailand to cross river to Laos
Thats when the rock hard seats started hurting along with the “back supports” designed to torture the wary and unwary. 6 hours the first day took, a bit of a hell with only one stop, but we made it to Pak Beng early evening. Its a place where boats can stop and has sprung up a number of guesthouses and little shops. Obviously very poor area but after wide-boy convinced us to stay at his guesthouse, we realised what we were up against. Scruffy little guesthouses but everyone’s was the same… it came down to who could tell the worst guesthouse story on the boat the next day. We had rats running around the floorboards which can play in the mind a bit but at least the floor wasn’t moving.

Left: Loas, below are the evil boats which killed my arse for 2 days

Right: Heading down the Mekong
I heard that the next day’s journey was bad, even longer but it was worse. We only took 1 boat so before we even moved off we where rammed full. The boat proceeded to stop about every hour to pick locals up and their produce/offspring to take them down river with us. Roof was full, seating area was full…no room. I was not over the moon to be sat on a bag of veggies, in the middle isle getting booted around by people going to the ‘toilet’ (hole) at the end of the boat. About 9 frigging hours on that b*stard boat and my rear end will be bruised for months. Slow boat schmo boat.

Anyway, made it at last to Luang Prabang only to be welcomed by a downpour. Been travelling with an English couple Katie and Michael and a english teacher called Jo, and we all piled off the boat in the steaming rain and found a reasonable guesthouse nr the centre. Shattered though we were, a few beers and a good local meal and we twere really knackered.
Jo as it turned out is one of these spooky small world things. Just chatting on the boat, it turns out she is from Plymouth… lived in Southway and went to Tamerton Foliot primary school. (yes this means nothing to non-Plymouthians). When I said do you remember a Mr Whitefoord, she described a big teacher with a beard, who took lots of photos and signed report cards with a cartoon. Yup, my Dad (who passsed away 3 years ago) taught her in primary school in about 1980. Damn spooky if u ask me.

Anyway, off to wander around and to try and figure out how to get to Ventiane. ta ta for now
Posted by Hew at 9:05 PM
Thursday, March 21, 2002
CHIANG KHONG, north Thailand, next to Laos border 7pm

Ooooh Lycos has been playing silly buggers recently so dragging out my address book has been a pain. (keeps timing out). Ah well, enough of the interesting stuff, on to the dull stuff (!)

Had a cracking Thai massage last night for the first time… and I only nearly cried twice. She was a bit rough in places. (Please note, this is a family site). The owner was saying that the 1hr traditional massage I just had should next time be an hour of traditional, followed by an hour of oil. That combo he said was the business. We’ll see. Phat burger after and then braved the market again.

Been in the back of an ‘airconditioned’ ride from hell today. Our hot stuffy minibus ride took about 5hrs to reach the near top of Thailand. Blackpool. Chessington and Alton Towers ain’t got nuthing of this boy’s moves, weaving around the road at 70 odd amongst slow traffic like his life depended on it… well our lives sure as sheet did. Any way we made it to the Nam Khong guesthouse which overlooks the spectacular Mekong River. About 250m wide at this point, brown and nasty fast looking. On the other side of the river is Laos. Took a stroll along the river at dusk, listening to the twanky twinky sounds of Lao/Thai radio coming from across the river… ver nice. The infamous golden triangle is nearby, probably only an hour or so, but its not worth it and just a touristy stop. (Golden Triangle is the point on the river where Thailand, Burma and Laos meet – previously notorious for opium smuggling trade if you know who to ask!)

Tomorrow we get picked up and take the short ferryacross to Laos. A quick visa stamp later and we are on the slow boat to Luang Prabang. Saw the alternative way down the river today – a loud, screaming, crash-helmetted 6 seater speedboat which takes only 6hrs, and not the 2 days it’ll take us. Gave me a headache just looking at it.
Few peeps on the coach and guesthouse are doing the same trip, so we can all compare mossie bites in the morning.

Still bugger hot up here. ta ta.
Posted by Hew at 4:13 AM
Tuesday, March 19, 2002
CHIANG MAI. 20th March.

Changed a few Thai bahts into US dollars this morning as I head to Laos for a few days (pick up tomorrow am). Might (or might not) be an update for a while. I’m staying at a guesthouse right by the Laos border Thursday PM, they might have online access… else it’ll have to be as and when. Off to stock up on books and food for the next few days.
Went to the see Black Hawk Down last night, would’ve made the markets to buy some odds and ends but laughing boy here turned up late for the early show. Not a bad film, pretty exciting – just don’t think too much about it. Not bad at all.
Posted by Hew at 9:57 PM
Monday, March 18, 2002
CHIANG MAI. Tuesday 19th.

A quiet day, time for a reading, toes up and trying to look up places to stay in Laos. Chiang Mai is a cracking place to shop around for tshirts (2pound50odd). silks, watches, knickknacks etc, but the repetitive ‘hellooo’ from every store owner can be a bit much sometimes. But I much prefer this place to the madness that it is Bangkok.
If the markets get too much then its time to break for a fruit shake… having bored everyone with tales of these drinks I have at least introduced a few to them. Fruit, fruit juice and ice cubes all blended together produce a welcome change from the gallons of water downed each day. (You can tell its a quiet day when I bang on about fruit drinks). May chip for the cinema and a massage tonight, till then…
Posted by Hew at 9:23 PM
Sunday, March 17, 2002
CHIANG MAI, Monday 18th March, 2.30pm odd

Was all going well as we set out for the Thai boxing last night, 5 of us jumped in a taxi truck thing and off we went. Unfortunately despite flawless execution, noone failed to note that there was no boxing on Sundays, only Fridays. On returning to the hotel, the guilty produced a flyer only realise the date was 2 days out, and um… one month. Ah well these things happen.

As it turned out it may have been a blessing as Chiang Mai had some sort of festival last night (6pm-midnight) where thousands (and I mean thousands) of thai’s turned out for a street party/market/event type thingy. Was absolutely rammed. A great atmosphere to wander around, although the photies might be a bit crap with so many people.

Off to Laos on Thursday. I have a minibus to take me to the northern Thai/Laos border to then cross and take the slow boat down the mekong to Luang Prabang (main northern city in Laos). Slow boat takes 2 days and should be different! A few days in LP, then its down to Vientiane (captial) for a few days more before heading probably back to Bangkok. From there I hope to arrange a Vietnamese trip and maybe a short trip to Ankor Wat in Cambodia.
In the meantime its take it easy time… or should that be spend less money time.
Posted by Hew at 11:39 PM
Saturday, March 16, 2002
CHANG MAI, Sunday 17th. 2.30pm – Paddy’s Day
Managed to confirm the trek that afternoon, and as it turn out it started the next day.
Picked up from the guesthouse we headed over to the hotel where most of the group where staying. Was a real good group, 13 in all – 3 mad Japanese girls, an american, czech, irish, couple german fellas and a few Brits.

Kicked off by a 2hr drive up to the NE of Chang Mai into the mountains in the back of a covered pickup truck (was nr Phrao if anyone is interested).
After a quick lunch of chicken and rice at a small village we started off about 2ish in 35+ degree sunshine. All knacked quickly but fortunately as we went up higher we went into shade.
First stop was a small waterfall which we were all to eager get under after the previous walk. Moved on then to the first village we were staying in.

Scenery as we head up into the mountains First hilltribe village

It was a small place which was recently raided by the authorities to prevent them growing opium. Wasn’t till the next day when we left that Jackie the guide mentioned that they were not nice people who only spent money received by our visit on drugs. We all crashed in a large hut… after a cracking meal cooked by the guide .. and spending the little money I had on beer (was told only to bring a bit).

Second village, entitled ‘Man at Work’

We were warned the next morning that we would be walking straight up for an hour… and he wasn’t joking. Again all completely knacked and only started to get our heads together when we started downwards towards the elephant camp. After lunch and waiting for the worst of the day’s heat to go we went on the elephants on a ‘safari’. Which meant walking down the valley past another small village and up the next hill (saving our poor feet from another hill). Again a cracking experience. Lots of piccies so one day they’ll be up to help explain the heat, dust and landscape around… amazing. Anyway, we wandered to the second village we were going to crash in. A bigger place, and nicier people the guide advised us. A nice meal, followed by village children (and then us) dancing around a fire. All real nice and yes more pictures. Only down point was when they asked us to sing. Japanese girls led the way, followed by the German and Irish. Only the pitiful English were left singing one chorus of American Pie and forgetting the rest. Truely crap we were!

Trek group with hangovers

Final day saw us trek through another village to meet a truck which took us a river stop. After a final lunch then we split up into groups and headed downstream on bamboo rafts. Undeterred by the rancid water and the odd dead dog/pig, we mucked about enough to wreck the rafts … good laugh but amzing to see locals using the river in that state.

River rafting

After 2hrs more we were back in Chiang Mai after a cracking 3 days.

All went out for beers last night which means that I’m still knacked as ever. Went to US place for food, German crappy umpah bar (nice beer tho), English bar for sum laaaager then the Irish pub. A good night especially as the only Irish fella was celebrating Paddy’s Day then, as tonight he’s doing the night-train to Bangkok. Today is hardly constructive but off to see more Thai boxing with Greg and Immo the german fellas tonight. Will sort out next steps today/tomorrow. Hopefully Laos can come off.
Apologies if the above doesn’t make sense… too knackered to sort it out now. adios for now
Posted by Hew at 11:45 PM
Tuesday, March 12, 2002
CHANG MAI, Weds 13th, 12.30pm odd

35degrees, bright and sunny with a lovely light breeze drifting along the baked streets of northern Thailand today. Hope everyone is okay in the rain and gales in ol’ Blighty.

Market in Chiang Mai

Been tempted by fake football tops for around a quid today… think they spelt France wrong on the badge but after all its is only a French fake. Saw them trying to give away Luton and Leciester tops, but not having much luck there I’m afraid. Wandered around town last night, found an Irish bar (duh) and had a good gander round. Able to have Carlsberg on tap here so on the beer front things are going well (at least better than the 6% singa which slips down all too quickly).
Hope to be able to confirm and sign up for a 3 day trek later on today… guesthouse owner just needs to confirm whether we depart tomorrow or Friday. If memory serves then it’ll be mountain walks to villages, ele rides and a spot of rafting. Hope to investigate a Loas trip here too. Was chatting to a swede fella in Bangkok who said a trip down the mekong is well worth it. Yeah will be worth it for the mozzies and using the end of the boat for a lavvie sounds like um.. fun.
So for once there might be a 3 day delay in updates. (gasp). Seriously, it is so easy to jump on the ‘net here, every other shop or store has space put away for a bank of networked PC’s. As its this easy to post an update, feel free to voice an opinion to my e-mail. (i.e. crap/boring/dull or all 3). ta ta
Posted by Hew at 9:45 PM
Monday, March 11, 2002
CHANG MAI, Tuesday 12th March. 2ishpm

Mad hot up here (I did pick the hot season to visit, duh). 14 hours on the sleeper wasn’t too bad, when slotted into place the beds were better than may previous rock-hard ‘mattress’ in Bangkok. Your friendly station tuk-tuk fella dropped me off at my guesthouse this morning in the centre of Chang Mai and I seemed to have been lucky in that its a nice airy place but was more than I was hoping to pay per night. Its 200bht, which is about 3.60 sterling. Was hoping to stay here for a while as its in a great spot but the room is only available for 4 nights. They run treks (as do most, if not all, guesthouses) so may try and see what they can offer. Chang Mai is less hectic than Bangkok though still pretty busy and is the main city in the north of Thailand. As there is one central area and is less sprawling than Bangkok, it seems more managable and easier walking around and dropping into a place for food or a beer. The congestion in the capital just makes it a nightmare trying to get from A to B. Days seem to pass on by only having achieved one or two things. Went to Oz Embassy yesterday in Bangkok, the working visa takes 10days to process so I will head back down there to hand in application and maybe go to Koh Samet for a few days beaching it before I go to the south. Vietnamese embassy was closed but I understand it only takes 3-4 days to get the tourist visa stamp in Bangkok.
My e-mail is down 11th/12th March (grr Lycos) but will be checking it tomorrow.
Posted by Hew at 11:18 PM
Sunday, March 10, 2002
BANGKOK, Monday 1pm-ish

Lesson: Did you know… that the thai language is a mish mash of 3 or 4 dialects. As the language does not seem to have a fixed reference, the same streetnames can therefore be written in 3 or more ways. The language has 41 characters and 11 vowels. There can be around 5 meanings from the one word simply by emphasising the spoken word in one way or another.
E.g. translate ‘Pai Pai Pai Pai Pai’ if you can… I couldn’t (duh) but I’ve read it means something like ‘young green shoots grow trees’. – Edited to try and make more sense.

Posted by Hew at 9:57 PM
BANGKOK (still), Sunday 7.45pm local.

Hazy (or was it smog) seems to be the main order for the day… must be 34 degrees or a bit more… ver sticky. Earned by boy scout walking badge today as a little saunter (via a non-existent museum) turned into a 4/5 hr hike. Went up to Siam Square today, a hectic shopping area. Didn’t buy anything I still seem to be excelling at the ‘doesn’t he look out of place’ stage. Can’t think why, might be something to do with my whitey pins sticking out the bottom of my shorts.
Area I am now is the old hangout before Khao San Road really took off. Couple of older long time travellers (now teachers) were talking about the area when it was really popular. Junkie spots and whore hotels etc seemed to have moved on. He did tell me about Japanese ‘Steve’ who died in my room at the guesthouse.. which was nice. (a la Beach). He died of a heartattack but on further consideration it was left undecieded whether it was my room (206) or 205. Prolly saw my face drop when I ask them more info. And they weren’t pulling my leg as they then moved on to reminicing (sp) about other people they’ve known croak it at different guesthouses around.
I need a drink.
Off to Chang Mai tomorrow, leaving at 6pm for a 14 hr train ride, but I have a 2nd class bunk on the sleeper train. Have to get up early to try the Auzzie and Vietnamese embassies tomorrow. ta ta for now.
Posted by Hew at 4:54 AM
Friday, March 08, 2002
BANGKOK, Saturday 1pm local.

Back to 35 degrees odd today. Too hot for anything creative. Moved to a guesthouse further out today, so its adios to the air-con comforts of the 4 star hotel. Its clean and hella basic but its fine. Brains here walked to the Oz embassy (only 30mins) to sort out the visa for later on but forgot its Saturday.. but as this is the land on the smiles I managed to grin at the security guard who told me all about Saturday and Sunday not being a weekday. hmmm.
Was going to go to Chang Mai tomorrow but it might have to wait until Monday if I go back to the embassy. Problem is that I think the Oz embassy might need my passport to process my app which will be needed if i go up country. Not a real problem as I can always apply for a 3month tourist visa online nearer the time.
Plus laughing boy at trailfinders was fibbing when he said your thai visa starts from the point of entry. Anyways, my passport only stamped until May sometime. Looks like I’ll be doing the Malay-Thai trip a coupla times to get another 28days on the visa.
Spending too much money in bangkok and drinking to much singa beer, which i happened to notice last night is 6%. Found a good bar near guesthouse, and chatted to the owner called Wong. He’s approaching 50 and is a mad fan of 60s/70/ and early 80s music… a whole wall covered in videos from Buddy Holly, Duran Duran (early stages mind) and Pink Floyd. He’s well into it and speaks very good english but sounds like Mick Jagger… too much of video No 192383 *The Rolling Stones Interview*.
Posted by Hew at 10:08 PM
Thursday, March 07, 2002
BANGKOK, about bedtime

Kinda of got ripped off but I did have ringside seats at the boxing. The “coach” turned out to be a crapped out yellow taxi, and “driver” turned out to be old ‘grandad’. Got there in the end but i think he had problems looking over his lovely brown furry matted dashboard cover. nice.
Ringside…

Kickboxing was mad, and i swear it was the same venue as the film. Saw a fella get his ribs crushed in till he passed out and another get kicked and punched into next week. jubbly.
Hoping to get sponsored by Sangi beer… seems to be working… on my side so far at least.
Sorry for the amount of updates but I have too much time and too many peeps are offering the ‘net.
Posted by Hew at 8:22 AM
Wednesday, March 06, 2002
BANGKOK, THAILAND. 7th March, bout lunchtime.

Hope someone is reading this stuff. One e-mail from an avid reader so far (/waves to Ah! Paul). Got 15 mins waiting for the exchange place to open so I’m killing time. Off to a Thai boxing match tonight not sure whether I’ve been ripped off, but organisers are the tourist peeps here so should be okay though not sure about the ‘ringside’ seat promise.

Bangkok in the rain

Oh, and what I said about Chinatown being like Bladerunner without the rain? Well we had a shed load this morning, well chuffed I bought my spanky travel prolly… and I can saunter along with the locals in the gutter-rivers now.
Khao San road is a sight… a long road of neon, music, street sellers, blaggers and bars. But I dunno whether I’m brave enough to head to Patpong I/II (um, ‘specialist’ bar area). Have to see if I can live through the Thai boxing tonight… “Do we have any volunteers from the audience… YOU sir”. Off to Chang Mai in a few days, have to sort cheaper accom out first. ta ta.
Posted by Hew at 10:14 PM
BANGKOK, THAILAND. 6th March, 4pm local time.

Nasty journey including 4 hr train and 11 hr flight ended yesterday 3.30pm local time… nasty. The heat smacks you right in the face at a toasty 32degrees. Dragged myself into a cab through rush hr, checked in, shower and toes up. Managed to get myself up to the panoramic restaurant late on and filled me face with carlsberg and raw fish… jubbly.

Chinatown, Bangkok Royal Palace Technology hits Buddism

Hotel is in downtown Chinatown, and this place is amazing. Hectic 24-7, kinda Bladerunner but without the rain and LOTS of heat. Not many places in the world where you can buy dried/fried/smoked/fresh/grilled fish, next to false teeth sellers, next to gunsmiths (full on police shotguns too), knife sellers (massive rambo types) next to cuddly and crap soft toys. The smells? Nothing can prepare u for the the different smells just walking around, though the fried fish kinda helps the nausa on the back of the throat if you’ve just eaten. This place is mad, and if ever you think the moped riders in London are mad, these boys out here are accidents waiting to happen. Crazy buggers zooming around with their houses on their backs, competing for 30″ of space with the nutty tuk-tuk drivers. (kind of 3 wheeled taxis).
Took on my lost and confused touristy disguise today (good thinking eh), and braved a river boat ride up to an amulet market and bumped into the National museum and royal palace.

Royal Palace, and yes that’s gold leaf

Ver nice. Don’t worry only a few pictures taken. Off to the Khao San Road tonight for a few bevies after a kip… hotel is top notch but might as well make use of the facilities while I still can. Ain’t gonna be in this luxury for a while. Hope all is well, till the next time. Remember, drop me a line when u can with any news, thou individual responses may be limited due to me being on the clock using the ‘net over here.
Posted by Hew at 1:14 AM
Thursday, February 28, 2002
PLYMOUTH

Few days to go and it seems everything is coming together. Passed my Online TEFL, which ticked along without too many problems and if u want more info go to www.onlinetefl.com. Got nearly everything sorted, mossie stuff, travel clothes etc… but with the exception of tickets and passport, Bangkok will offer anything I forget and at bugger all compared to UK.
First few days in Bangkok have been booked in at the very nice China Princess Hotel. At a reasonable online price per night, at least the hotel will give me a change to get my head sorted after the 11 hour flight and inevitable jet lag. Must give an update whilst sipping a cocktail by the roof pool.
Posted by Hew at 4:46 AM
Tuesday, February 19, 2002
PLYMOUTH

Thanks all who could make it to Clapham on Sat. Good laugh for all despite being split between upstairs and downstairs.
Thai visa sorted, so just counting down to 4th March. Prolly will take my mobile for first few months anyway for text messaging, so might be worth keeping hold of it.
Posted by Hew at 5:53 AM
Monday, February 11, 2002
PLYMOUTH

Few weeks to go and things are coming together. More gadgets bought, more injections and now looking at hotels for the first few days in Bangkok. Hmmmm, nice. Biggest problem over last couple of weeks was the Australian visa – they don’t accept personal callers in London and take 6 weeks to process applications. If you had to renew your licence like me make sure you do it well in advance. Looks like I have to spent 10 days in Chang Mai sorting my visa from the Australian Consulate there.
Anyway, if you are reading this before Saturday 16th, I hope you can make it to the Artesian Well on Wandsworth Road. Meeting in the Alexandria by Clapham Common tube for about 7.30 then moving down to the pub for 9-9.30 to buy tickets for the club upstairs and um… more beer. Hope to see you there. I am staying at Sweaties Wednesday PM to Sunday (maybe Lisa’s Saturday night) but will be on my mobile in London from Wednesday morning if you are about.
Posted by Hew at 4:33 AM
Friday, January 25, 2002
PLYMOUTH

Lots of odds and ends still to do but I think I am slowly winning. Ticket been bought – all dates except the departure are subject to change, but the rough agenda is as follows.
4th March London –> Bangkok
22nd July Singapore –> Perth
27th August Perth –> Sydney
26th November Sydney –> Auckland
TBD Auckland (via Sydney) –> Delhi
TBD Bombay –> London
Posted by Hew at 9:13 AM
Tuesday, January 22, 2002
PLYMOUTH

Its now adios to London as I drove back down to old salty Plymouth last night. Been 9 years since I was in Plymouth for any significant amount of time, should be a nice change. Also I’m sure lots of people have my Mum’s address but feel free to drop me an e-mail should you need a permanent address for me.
Posted by Hew at 3:34 AM
Friday, January 18, 2002
LONDON

Final day at work! After five years I said adios to TARP/e-Satisfy for good. Well, at least till I pop back in a couple of weeks time when I’m up in London again mid-Feb for a few days sorting visas and stuff out. But I’d like to say a *big* thanks to all at work for the card etc. Had five good years at the ol’ place and I really wish that everything goes well for everyone there.
So as a reminder, please remember to *not* use my old email (xxx@e-satisfy etc). If u want to drop me a note, click the Contact link on the left hand side of the page to find the e-mail link.
Posted by Hew at 11:47 AM
Thursday, January 03, 2002
LONDON

Initial plans are coming together. Ticket hopefully being purchased in the next week or two, beginning of March remains leave date.
Bangkok/Thailand -> Vietnam -> Malaysia are in the early plans. Nepal, India and other stop overs are being considered and well…., if I said budgetted I would be aving a laff. Just need to see how flexible the flight ticket(s) can be.
I’d love to visit Nepal and India, but perhaps later in the trip. Who knows, if a place appeals then there I will stay.
Posted by Hew at 1:59 AM
Wednesday, January 02, 2002
LONDON

Hello and welcome to Booted.org.uk.
Yes, your eyes are not deceiving you… the site has changed!!! In preparation for my departure from these shores in March, this site is being developed to provide a form of online diary.
In this window, I am able to publish updates and news of my travels as and when I get a chance to get to a PC. It will save the need to send a mass e-mail out to people, and if anyone is interested they can visit this site every once and a while and see how I’m getting on (or not as the case may be).
Click the ‘Contact’ link on the left handside to get my e-mail address. There might be two addresses in due course as and when I can arrange an e-mail account that does not receive the mountain of crap Hotmail seems to send to me!

Bye for now, another update as and when plans start to come together.
Hew